Did my first 1290 valve adjustment

Well my bike is at 9,200 miles, so I decided to do a valve adjustment on it. I only did the rear valves tonight and will do the front tomorrow. So far all the rear valves were TIGHT. The specs for intake .10-.15mm the exhaust .25-.30mm. My intakes were so tight my smallest feeler gauge of .05mm wouldn't go! The exhaust were .20mm. The rear takes some "speacial" tools to do, the cam chain tensioner is positioned to where "normal" tools don't work so well. I had to use a ratching box end wrench as well as unbolt and turn the engine "bearer" support(the black engine hanger thats on both sides) and turn it clockwise the little it will turn to do the little tiny movements it gave space to turn my 22mm wratching box end. Tomorrow I need to get a long allen with ball end in 5mm to try and tighten the cam chain tesioner cover bolt that all my 5mm allen tools are just the wrong size to work. Of course my 5mm allen key that USED to have the ball end is the one allen that I snapped off the ball end years ago and never needed the ball end until now which I believe would have just barely worked. So Looking at the front it should be pretty easy after the rear(fingers crossed). Oh just so you guys know the spark plug takes a 15mm socket.

Good to know!
Tight valves is no good, seems the valve seats wear a bit faster than in the 990's, I checked mine a the same mileage on the 990 SD I had (15.000 km) and they where good as gold.
On the 1290 might decide to check them a bit earlier than the recommended service interval.
Any pictures taken to explain the "special tools" or difficulties others might have doing the same job?

Guy, I didn't take any pictures. I will try tomorrow(later today 2:58 am here) of the engine bracket unbolted and turned clockwise(doesn't move much) and hopefully how I plan to position the long allen with ball end to tighten the cam chain tensioner release bolt. I can say I was pretty surprised how tight the valves were. I'm not one to rev the shit out of my bikes, from time to time I'll spin em up pretty good for very short durations. One reason I like the 1290 is how it makes so much power in the range I used most, but will still put a grin on my face when the mood strikes.I know as engines break in, valves usually do get tighter as they wear the valve seats. Generally what I have found with my riding style, is that usually the first 2 or 3 valve adjustments is all most bikes need. After that they have "forged" their seats and seem to pretty much stay in spec. I'm sure the guys who only know redline constantly will probably still have adjustments, but I bet smaller and smaller adjustments even for them as time goes on. I'm hoping the next valve adjustment is smaller, that my valve seats just needed to be worn in. If they are as far out of spec again, then I'll be worried that ktm uses very soft valve seats and that might be the end of the super duke for me. We'll see.

Correct me if I'm wrong but in my experience in adjusting valves in my aprilia and Ducati the value clearances have gotten bigger not tighter as parts wear and added larger shims to get it back into specs.

I plan on doing my own valve checks on the sd and curious what's different about KTM. And it would be great if you could take a few pics to show use how you did it..

I tip my hat to you. Anyone ready and willing to adjust valves on their own bike of this type always engenders the next step in mechanical prowess, that I will never reach.
The 990 asked for an early valve adjustment, right after break in. If memory serves me it was 600 miles. I am surprised the 1290 lets you wait that long.
Are you a mechanic?

Well, I wouldn't call me a mechanic, more of a cheap ass! I did attend motorcycle mechanics institute back in 98-99, but have never worked as a mechanic (where you really learn to be a mechanic) just do a few things on my own motorcycles. Basically I mount and balance my own tyres, change my oil and air filter, brake pads, lines and bleeding, chain replacement (I use rivet link), adjust valves, change spark plugs, fork seals, wheel bearings, etc. I'm no good with ecu issues at all. I like to ride and I'm not rich, so am kinda forced into doing my own mechanics so I can afford to ride.

In my experience, valves generally get tight rather than lose (but I've heard others complain of the opposite) for the reason of valve seat wearing faster than the valves, cams and rocker arms. I was in an accident on my 8 day old Ducati multistrada 1100s that was destroyed, so I never got the chance to try an adjustment on the duck. I was however watching some videos to try and familiarize myself with the procedure for when the time came and was a little nervous.

I can say that shim over/under bucket is definitely more work than the screw and nut valves. But would say anyone who is somewhat mechanically inclined, should be able to their own valve adjustments. I consider myself an idiot, at least I'm smart enough to know I'm an idiot. But I'm sure if I were to try and post "how to do" procedure and pictures, they're would be much better easier ways than how I do it. So I'm pretty reluctant to post the idiots way of valve adjustments.

So I did my front valves today and they were the same way, all valves tighter than spec with the intakes being the tightest. Although I really dont think have to much to worry about as far as valve burn on intakes since they are always being cooled by air/fuel mixture. One shitty thing that happened to me today was I did not get the rear valve chain tensioner to release to apply tension. I pressed on the tensioner and thought I moved it enough to release it, I know now you can actually hear it when it releases. So as I was turning the engine to get the front to top dead center I could here popping noises which was the chain sliping over the sprocket teeth. I can say I'm a little worried that I could be a tooth off top dead center on the rear. I put a long allen in the spark plug hole and slowly turned the crank until it seemed the piston was at the top of the stroke. I then put the cams back in aligning the marks, but I swear the piston would just BARELY move up as I turned the crank slightly and the marks were not aligned. I can say that it starts and seems to idle fine and revs normally. So it might be right where it should be. Not sure if being off by a tooth before top dead center would be noticeable. If anyone knows for sure let me know. Definately hear valve clatter now, but I'm sure that's to be expected since before the valves were out of spec tight. Theres the saying "tappy valves are happy valves"

Agro, if the front is spot on but rear is off one tooth, would the front "carry" the rear to where its hard to tell? I havent ridden the bike since the adjustment, but it starts fine, seems to idle fine and seems to rev fine. I just blip the throttle to maybe 5,000 rpm and it seems to be ok. But just curious if the front is doing most the smooth work and the rear, if its off at all, is maybe not off by enough to be noticeable? I've never experienced a bike that was off by a tooth or two, so have nothing to compare it to or know what to look for. Plus It being a twin, don't know if my senario of the front carrying the rear even holds true.

I do not think the cam chain could be loose enough for the chain to slip teeth.
One tooth off and your looking at some serious timing changes.

UPDATE: I pulled everything back apart and found that I was indeed one tooth out on the exhaust cam. You have no idea the relief I feel just knowing it is now ok. And just do you know, one tooth of means it can idle, rev OK.

Agro, I felt so much better just knowing I was giggling as I was putting everything back together and felt a huge weight lift off my shoulders! Let me just say, what a tiny, tiny, turn one tooth is, so was surprised using my redneck method of using a tool in the spark plug hole to find top dead was so close. But since I wasn't so worked up and could think clearly, I did what I should have done in the first place but didn't cross my mind. I used the hole in the side of the engine case and looked for the detent mark to line up and saw my intake was dead on but my exhaust was one tooth off.

Guy, the reason it could jump TEETH is because I didn't get the tensioner to release like I thought I did. But if ever not sure or want to be sure(which I should have done) just look down through the top of the engine and you can CLEARLY see if the tensioner has been released! That aspect alone made me want to kick my own ass for not just checking which would have saved me a huge amount of worry and work! Now I'm intersted to see what it performs like now that my intake valves on both front and rear have some clearance.

Argo, I was pumping my fist saying "YES, YES,YES" and that was seeing I was one tooth off. Imagine being happy about being a tooth off. If I were dead on I would have been estatic, but just the feeling of knowing for sure. Man even dinner tasted better tonight!

Humble Pie

Glad to hear you got your valves adjusted.
I have a few questions if I may ask.

You had issues with unlocking the chain tensioner, what tool did you use? Would buying the Ktm unlocking tool be worth the $75 investment?

On page 233 of the repair manuel it refers to removing the special tool (10) crank the engine several times, check valve clearance. Can you elaborate on this special tool and step?

I appreciate your thoughts.

Ok, I managed to measure sme of the shms and seems they are same measure at same cam but not same when changing cam/cylinder/bike...

Like: 2014 rear cylinder intake shims were L 2,52mm and R 2,51mm, exhaust L&R both 2,46mm
and 2015 front cylinder intake shims were L 2,59 and R 2,61mm, exhaust L 2,39mm and R 2,41mm

So sit and wait for shims to arrive and continue then...

Very few pitting (2-3 per one or two bearings per head) marks on cam bearing surfaces, cams looked ok to me. A slight misadjustment or misalignment (just a shadow seen there) has been there at the front cam bearing seat at the front head of 2015 one... Cam lobes kind of funny look a bit concave at slopes but I think that actually does no harm (maybe it's intentional/good) because they operate valves via followers that have long contact surfaces... Cams are cheap but bearing grooves are in the head and the cover (what is that spider called? cam bridge?) and those are somewhat expensive - but you could have latest fashion (2017 GT) there maybe if need rises...

What the heck is that 0402050980 NEEDLE ROLLER DIN5402 5X9,8 1.30 € in the dealer parts picture? Must have missed something... Or is it the cam follower needle bearing?

Ok, I have found that those shims seem to be same size at the same cam... But at only the same cam not cylinder and bike... So pairs of shims are needed even if wear is equal. Now when I am halfways (one disassembled on both bikes) I noticed that on 2014, the rear cylinder intakes shims were 2,52 and 2,51mm, exhaust shims 2,46mm both. 2015 front cylinder intakes shims were 2,59 and 2,61mm, exhaust shims were 2,39mm and 2,41mm... So I ordered 2 sets of shims, one is even by tens, other by fives...

Did order cam chain tensioners too, looked a bit strange at action.

Well, ordered somehow wrong parts - looked at the schema and picked up wrong number for the cam chain tensioners, so they sent me tensioner caps (those 22mm ones that are torqued to 25nm) but maybe todfay or tomorrow will have tensioners too (part nr 77036003000 CHAIN ADJUSTER HYD. 05)...

Otherwise it seems to be a mess - the sim sets that arrived were almost too ok, the one was rom 1,85mm to 3,2mm in 0,05 steps (first thought that they are as 0,10mm steps and that's why ordered the other) anmd the other is from 1,875mm to 3,175mm and in 0,05mm steps but there seems to be small variances so a 2,425 can be 2,435mm... And if you have a tool (which I had to go and get yesterday...) to measure in smaller steps than 0,05mm it helps a lot... At least I think so. Bahco has one that goes from 0,03mm to 0,10mm in 0,01 steps and from 0,10 in 0,05mm steps...

But, still... There is the routine that has to be steady to get even measures... And I think it's not directly logical to have a 0,03mm thinner shim when there is 0,03mm too small a gap... Funny I had to go on the exhaust side into about 0,15mm thinner shim to get about 0,08mm clearance and at the intake side about 0,09mm to get 0,05mm more clearance... I could swear the engine is just where it should be and when turned over the measures didn't change.

But, when you take cams out once it goes much faster so practise does make you a master some day, maybe.

About the chain tensioner: It's tricky, when pushing it first it kind of cliks easy but you have to push harder and further the needed 3mm to make it bottom and completely release itself. Then it's easy to see that the chain is under tension. An extension bar 10" long and 1/4" thick seems to be just suitable for that one... Just push in correct direction... The longer 5mm allen tool with ball head is kind of too short for me.

Things go slow because I cannot work long with my back inclined, it starts aching with bend-over positions, then it's impossible to do anything... Maybe I should find some suitable exercise for it... One day I did clean radiators from debris (insects, they stay there either you try compressed air or immersing into soap bath... some plastic tootpicks are though good tools...) and pulse/blood pressure went to the sky... I don't know why I do this...

Ok, now it begins to look steady - maybe or most possibly I did make some errors at first measurements, other alternatives seems not to be possible - or at least I can't imagine else. It's state of art, to begin with smallest possible alternative blade and slowly come closer to the correct one, always check blade measures with micrometer... And have engine at just and not about at the same position... I'm a hard learner, like the father of those Marx brothers who they said thought a real professional (tailor) doesn't have to use metering (taking measures) at all... Just do it all by look...

Well, those new cam chain tensioners look like they are a bit better by action so let's see (when and if they are filled with oil)... I had some trouble there - had to do the first cylinder 3 times before I was happy (0,15mm intakes, 0,30mm exhausts), with second I thought I had learned the lesson but 1 time was not enough, I had to take only the exhaust cam off and do a small maybe it was a 0,05mm change to the shims... Then... I had the new feeler gauge, beginning from 0,03mm and going by 0,01mm steps... I measured like a micromaniac and still had to do the exhaust cams once again... I just do not get it - what kind of a mistakes I make, these seem not to go in a normal (maybe my abnormal) logic... Intake is more or less straightforward - you need 0,06mm more space you delete 0,06 off the shim... Each time I measure the feelers and shims... But the exhaust was not the same... So, I gather the last remaining cylinder today and pray that I have learned to do it correct. Hope I have enough shims (have 2 sets (different) but quantity looks tight for 2 bikes). Hope don't have too noisy engines... Hope they run...

What I did, I measured the results a couple of times. Turned the engine over 2 repetitions and placed it again on the exactly the same position (with the crank-arrest-tool), same results...

Funny, everything I do needs to be done again before I'm satisfied but 3 times? That is lousy!

What was I thinking - yes... The torques for the cam bridge in the book are m6 10nm and m8 18nm, the lower measures (that are mentioned only once in the repair manual) m6 8,5nm and m8 14,5nm are reserved only if you have the special tool for the torque wrench, that looks a small extension particle with a solid 5mm allen head in it...

I'm glad I removed radiators because now there is enough room to take good measures and to do other work.

Those radiators are a pain to clean from insect debris - wife had the innovation of using plastic toothpicks... Slow... I had already tried every possible cleaning agent and compressed air many times but no results. Debris is stubbornly there. So, which of the radiator covers are preferable? RG or EP (Evotech Performance)? Both are in UK, dare I order from those firms? RG seems to be west from London and EP North...

Surprise! Could do the last one at one single time...

Now I only have had the camshafts taken off 8 times which counts 2 times per cylinder...

What about someone getting those wires and hoses over and in place again? Can't remember any more what went which way so... And still haven't got new coolant - considering still getting the expensive Motorex m5.0... Would need over 6 litres. maybe 6,5...

Got new spark plugs but is it too early yet for change - the old ones look like new.

Anyhow, the 2 different sim sets were just about what I needed (you know a 2,475mm can be 2,485 or 2,465mm), I had to look from old ones a couple and wanted to have maybe one in a different size (0,01mm larger or smaller) but didn't have to order more. Now those clearances are just about there at the intakes 0,15mm and exhausts 0,30mm there remained some discussion of some being a 0,01mm here or there but... If I ever get these running again we will maybe have some 12-15 000 kms again to ride. Maybe 3 years, depends on future days... End of the story, I hope.

I know it's probably a bit late for this advice but I usually take few pics of wire and hose routing before disassembly of dense setups.
Really helps with the reassembly, especially if it's been apart for a while.

Yes it really is a good idea - and I actually did so - or the Lady of the House took pictures of the mess while I tried to unfold it... I think now have to take a laptop beside the bike and have those pics there on screen so to go step by step backwards again.

Maybe do a little refreshment to the wire loom, some wire covering tape is a bit worn. Add some shielding 3M Scotchguard tape to sharp corners...

And, find proper Coolant for the bikes - the local dealer seems to have filled them something red as new but Motorex m5.0 seems to be green? would like to play oem there...

Oh, forgot to add that only the 2015 did have different oem size shim (0,04mm difference rear, 0,02mm on the front cyl) on same cam, the 2014 was more even (only 0,01mm difference at rear cyl exhaust shim). So does it tell something about quality and standards? Don't know, I'm no specialist... At least valve seats have been rather constant in going down, about 0,01mm difference max between left and right.

Interesting to see how cams and bearing surfaces look next time.