2005 Project build/winter project, completed.

So here is the finished product along with list of mods/changes

It's a 2005 KTM Superduke 990
2008 model Superduke larger 19L capacity tank
Rizoma Rearsets
CNC'd custom yokes
WP Steering damper
Brembo RCS master cylinder
Akrapovic evo Titanium exhausts
KTM CNC clutch cover
CRG clutch lever
Rebuilt rear shock with new spring
Rebuild forks with new springs/oil
Calipers rebuilt with new seals/oil
Powdercoated swingarm
Stainless bar ends

What next

Sell it, realise the mistake, buy another one, clean it, smile

Its not finished............You need an air filter box DNA or Motorhooligan.......

Job well doe there Weeksy

Damn dyslexic keyboard! I meant done of course

What happened to the R tail?

IIRC he has a big road trip coming up and was advised to wait on the fitting of the R seat until afterwards.


But he's probably sold it too!

Looks great. I really like the swing arm.

If only I wasn't so lazy.

looks nice and tidy , now go and repair that wall

Nice one! looks great

Nice one! looks great

nice job, only thing left is removing the SAS

So then gents..

Lets assume i'm now going to get this build 'finished' with the SAS removal/block off, the MH/DNA airbox etc. I'll probably go down the Tune ECU stuff rather than PC3 due to costs.

But this is where my knowledge on the topic ends.

So, do i go down the MH route ? Rottweiler ? other ?

Is TuneECU the preferred method now ?

A link to "how to remove SAS" thread would be appreicated please.

Would i be better just taking the bike to X81 ? LOL. I assume he does Superdukes as well as the 950/990 SM's

Cost wise Rottwieller is cheaper and the results are much the same. PC3 is easier to tune with but if you can find someone who will use both its perfect as they can use TuneECU to adjust ignition. Personally after using 4 dynos including HM and Projex I'd use Track Electronics. The guy is a genius!

SAS removal is easy. Front one is a bit of a bitch to remove. You don't need to go the resistor route, just use TuneECU to turn SAS off and fit the blanking plates and remove all parts of SAS system. Job done.

Any forum discounts on air boxes?

Little bit of stripping, cleaning and sorting today, calipers off amongst other things.

Got told off for some yukky bolts...

Replaced them

Looks great - some riding next

Could still do with some advice on this stuff, a mate of mine rode the SD yesterday and i rode his 900SS.

Whilst i noticed all the pluses of the Superduke, i also noticed the 'snatchy' FI compared to his slow revving user friendly 900SS.

I guess part of the issue is that i've never ridden a 'sorted' SD in a fuelling context, therefore don't know if mine is better or worse.

Tried to do the 15 mins reset a few weeks back, however the sodding thing stalled both times after about 8 mins lol.

So, assuming my fuelling could be 'improved'

What's my plan and my start point ?

Remove Secondaries
Fit Filter Box
RC8 stacks
Custom Map

as I said ....your not finished yet

....you asked the question

So it was not till you rode another bike you realised you had snatchy FI?

Sounds like it had never crossed your mind prior to to trying this other bike that it was "snatchy" in essence you were used to it on the SD?

My SD is nearly as good throttle wise now as my 950 SM was.......and I have 1/4 turn throttle on the SD

In that case as per KTM666

Remove Secondaries
Fit Filter Box
Remove 02 sensors
Custom Map/tune ECU

I guess i need to break open the piggy bank for an airbox then


thanks gents.

Booked in for Dyno and full setup at BSD Tuning 6th June.

...you will think you have a new bike.....the difference will be huge and all usable

although its nice to do it stages and see the results......save your self a fortune.....and get all the bits on and removed and custom map it just once

Its not all about power...it makes the Superduke what KTM always intended it to be.....You might get a better throttle just doing the flies and a map...I could not say as I did not go that route...best read this as Kev documented his changes far better than I did


http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?f=1 ... 9087#p9087

Well, thanks to the kindness of a forum buddy, i aquired a TuneECU cable today in the post... SO...i thought, lets give it a whirl.

Bit of a faff sorting the drivers out for the COM port software, but i'm an IT nerd so not too complex, most of the complications were cause by my work laptop build rather than the software.

Plug into the connector on the loom and after a bit of messing about get it connected.

More reading of the TuneECU pdf document and i've copied my map from the current ECU onto the laptop, just in case like

Then went to the 06_Akra_slip_on_smoothened map which was one of the 'favourite' maps of the forum lads and copied it onto the ECU, takes about 2-3 mins to copy it and then tells you it's completed. Made sure the SAS and 2ndry' flies were disabled and all good to go

Fired the bike up to check the throttle bodies, you get a nice little RPM representation of where they are and a 3 figure number next to that.... they were pretty much identical, so i was happy there.

Lastly after disconnecting the job was to do the 15 mins reset, this is a fabled thing on Superdukes which the ECU 'adapts' to the air/temp/etc which needs to be done after a new map etc it loaded. There's conflicting information on the 15 mins reset, but it doesn't hurt to do it.

Jump back on the bike and fire it up.... Only doing about 5 mile loop for a quick test. I'd ridden the bike home today from the office so was acustomed to how it's riding, but in all honesty it was completely unecessary in that context, the difference between the bike then and the bike now is like jumping on 2 completely different machines... Words honestly fail me as to how different the bike now rides.

Gone is the 'hestiation' and 'hunting' at 25mph, 30mph, etc on a constant throttle, gone is the twitchiness of the throttle in this range too.

The bike when riding is a completely different machine, you come off the throttle and the engine braking has GONE !!!! well, gone is an exaggeration of course, but DAMN the engine braking is VERY different.. When speaking to Chris at X-bikes recently he told me this would happen and went into great depth about ignition advancing (sorry if that's wrong Chris) and told me how it would feel.... well, that's just HUGELY different too... i mean vastly so.

Off the throttle the bike has changed in the noises it makes too, gone is the popping and banging, replaced by an almost Inline4 burbbling noise you get on a Jap bike.

I'm honestly struggling to put into words how different the bike actually feels right now.

Amazed.

Chances of my piece of crap laptop talking to my ecu without taking a dump are zero but I don't live that far from you so perhaps you could be pursuaded with a good bribe of beer to do this to mine one day????

No problem.

...If you think that was a change.......Filter box and flies removed.....

Congrats to weeksy for keeping the SD over winter...double congrats for keeping long enough to upgrade it

It's looking good.

Keep and eye on the classifieds and soon the airbox is over at your house

Well today was a 2 hour stint on the dyno at my mates place, MSG racing in Aylesbury, their Dyno is known to be quite conservative, but in almost exact correlation with BSD dyno based upon known bikes and runs, they have seen bikes that make 200+ bhp on someones dyno making only 180 on theirs, so feel it's quite conservative, but also very much relative to what manufacturers claim in 'real' bhp figures, however, the figures are not important to me, i don't care if it say 90 or 140bhp as long as it's 'correct'

I had carte blanche really to try pretty much anything i liked, maps, fuelling etc etc,

We started off with a base run using "standard smoothened" (a map by someone else to improve low end delivery). That gave us a reading of 100.7bhp and 63.2ft/lb of torque and a VERY rich fuelling line but plenty of good and bad bits in there.
We moved onto a 2nd map which was "Akra smoothened", that gave us 104.5bhp and 66.2ft/lb but was showing very lean at the bottom of the rpm range, so much so that the dyno guy recommeded we don't use that one at all.

Map 3 was a custom mapping from a simillar bike from Jambox, a forum member, this was giving us 107.6bhp and a torque of 69ft/lb. The fuel/Air mix was nice all the way through and the power curve the highest and best of all the runs. We decided this was a keeper (for now at least)

We then thought we'd try one last go with the baffles out of the Akrapovic evo cans, this gave us 110.5bhp but only 0.2ft/lb of torque extra, it also stuck in a massive dip in power at 8000rpm, a proper plummet of power in fact. As i'm likely to run the bike with baffles due to early starts at work and trackday limitations, we decided to throw them back in.

On the way home you could notice the bhp difference, but obviously it wasn't night and day, but i'm pretty happy currently with how it all went. Obviously a complete custom map would likely give a bit more improvement, but there's no point me doing that until we reach winter and i decide if i'm going down the motohooligan airbox route etc. This gives up to 10bhp more and is quite a radical difference in fuelling, so until that decision is made, we'll wait on the full custom setup.

It was interesting to see the differences in being lean and rich made to the bike, the Superduke compared to things like a GSXR (which is his most common bike) likes to be quite rich, when leaned even so it's 'rich' compared to some other bikes there was an instant drop in power, it seems they like a bit of fuel the Superdukes.

Cost was £0, he's a mate and was interested in tune ECU stuff

I didn't get print or run files but I can do.

ARGHHHHHHH what a palaver...!!!

Swapped the lower cowl/undertray in about 3 mins, all good and simple...

Then went onto the headlight cowl. Well that was a sodding nightmare... Not hard (well apart from aligning the lower bracket) but just loads of messing about, loads of connectors and indicators that are a nightmare.
Especially when you get it all done, test the lights, good, test the indicators... left.... left ??? oh.... left is right and right is left !!! Now you'd think, "that's a 10 seconds job, disconnect and reconnect", however the cables don't have connectors, just directly into the loom, you have to remove the indicator covers, remove the lenses, then remove the spades and thread them out of the small holes, swap the cables then re-thread it all back together.... happily that was the end of it...

But the 5 minute job was over an hour in total... i've never seen so many screws, plugs and connectors LOL. Everything seems good though.

This headlight cowl has some scuffs on it, but this is the one that i'm hoping to drill and fit a screen to, as soon as i can win one on ebay.

I'm still waiting for the right hand panel to come up for sale somewhere before completing the change to black.

So as per advice i re-ticked the SAS option and the bike is loads quieter off the throttle with no side effects other than the popping and banging being gone.

I'll be impressed if an actual full custom map can make this bike much better than it is now !!!!

Glad you are.......gradually....... becoming a believer

I would not bother to get it mapped until you have finished changes/adding bits........save the money (for your air box...... )