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Binned it big time. Rebuild time.

99 posts · Started by Viking · 24 Sep 2011

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Liars!!! All this talk of Sd's crashing well.

Bike's dead. Tucked the front at duffus at Knockhill today.

1st session was wet, had 2x sighting laps then some pile of shit dumped oil everywhere so red flag out befre it even started.
2nd session, dry but odd damp bit in places. Guy infront had wets on. He was running it real slow through the corners, but was quick on the straights. Kept getting a run on him only for him to pull away. Managed to get a run on him into the hairpin, he went right to stay on wet line, i went left and outbraked him on dry line.

1st clear lap after 4 laps following, but due to being stuck behind him i'd struggled to get enough heat in the front. Foolishly ran it into Duffus as usual, tipped in and it didn't stick and ran a bit wide. Had enough time to think "get in" and almost try to get it in tighter and front tucked. Bike dug in and flipped tank/wheels roataions for 4-5 flips.

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Huge list of bits req'd. Off the top of my head....
Big things......
Mask and clocks
Radiator
Cans
Y piece
Subframes bent (might be able to staighten)
Left upper crash bung has bent mounting tag on frame
Key's broken off in ignition barrel.

Smaller things.......
Switchgear
Tanks's scuffed
Undertray broken (might epoxy up)
Bars
Bar mounts
Throttle assembly
Levers
Side panel brakets wil epoxy up. Panels req paining or vinyl.
Rear light.

Loads more but that's all i can remember just now.
What 's my options? I have a few ideas

1/ Fix it up rough as a trackbike with daylight mot and run it.

2/Take all trick bits off and break it for spres and try and get some money in. Put cash ontop of this and but another one.

If i break it, what kind money is in the major bits? Engine and box. OIl tank. Wheels tyres and discs. Frame with V5.
I mean, if i managed to faff about over the winter and get a few grand for all the bits then i could just fire another grand ontop and get another one and put all my bits on, gearing, PC3, quickshifter etc.

Fixing it up would prob cost the same but then i end up with a rough trackbike that's worth nothing if i decide to ever sell on.
Ouch....at least you are OK

It does look a bit better when all the mud is off, you going to rebuild or scrap it?
Slapped the back of my hand hard on the 1st roll then tucked my arms in and rolled for ages. Hands swollen up good but i'll nothing.

It's quite a surreal experience sliding along in the mud on your ass and looking up to see you bike upside down 2ft off the ground. Looked like slow motion. Even had time to think "damn, i wish it would stop flipping".
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Wow that did keep flipping didn't it Glad you are mostly ok. Tough one to call really. What was the value of the bike before the off? A lot would depend on that. Hope you can get her back on the road. if not you tend to get good prices for things such as the engine/frame as they are quite rare.
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Holy fook thats the worst SD post crash I have seen just waiting to watch the vid.

TBH I dont think you would get that much for whats left as spares.

wheels 400
shock 50
forks 200-300
Engine 300
Frame 100-150
Other bits 3-400

I would use the winter to scour ebay for parts and build a track bike.

Your rev counter working? put an 07+ headmask on it, there are tank graphics available to cover the scratches on tank.

Just watched vid I counted 4 rolls

Thats what I would do anyway.
Think its the small silly bits that will add up. Switch gear, ign barrel etc.

Rev counters smashed. Speedo is totally missing probably still airborne
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I'm warming to the idea of making it a track/stunt/semi rd legal hooligan tool. Stickered up, battle mask etc. Would still need a rev counter and speedo, temp gauge, fuel gauge too possibly. Might be worth looking into those aftermarket dash options. Could maybe end up making this look quite trick in a rough track spec kinda way. Even thinking about doing away with ignition and just fit a switch. I never get off and leave the bike anywhere anyway so wouldn't be a problem there.
Good old scotish mud it does break a fall ))))
If your going to put it together again all the kigs horses and all the kings men say " keep it simple "
mountain bike speedos are good enough for an MOT
Do you need lights on a track bike ? Daylight MOT ?
Winter is coming so not many people are going to be in the market for buying a bike or pieces to a bike. Summer is typically when everyone is scouring for good deals on parts. If the insurance companies work the same as they do over here, then I'm pretty sure a totaled SD will amount to more coin than the good bits and pieces left on a crashed SD. The wheels, brakes, and maybe suspension are all that I see thats worth any solid money at a first glance.

The rest of it (stock headers, stock air box, etc) have a hard enough time selling here normally. Add in the fact that some people are about to store their bikes for the winter and the fact that your parts are from a wrecked bike (lessens the value) and I don't see you making a good profit from a part out unfortunately. I would "hope" it gets written off as totaled.

Glad you're ok and hope you get back on an SD again soon, whether it's this one or another. Or hey maybe this is your calling to an RC8? Good luck.
Glad you are mostly OK. I think only GoGo's SD looked worse - his front end tore off.

I hope I don't sound like a dick, but I'm going to pass on some advice that Jason Pridmore gave during one of his classes. He said, its a track day and not a race there are no trophies or money for winning. So when you get stuck behind someone that's slowing you down and frustrating your attempts to pass, its best to come into the pits then go back out and get away from them.

I didn't listen at first and damn near binned my 750 trying to pass this guy on a litre bike. He parked it in the effing corners than shot down the straights at mach 5. I decided I was going to pass him by slingshoting out of the final turn and just taking it WFO down the front straight. I'd blow by him when he started his parking maneuver in turn one.

Unfortunately, I cranked in too much juice coming out of the last turn and ended running off the track and into the infield at like 90 mph. Luckily I got back on track without binning it. I even got an atta boy from one of the corner workers for my off raod demonstration. But, after that, all I could think about was Pridmore's advice. Now if I get caught behind someone practicing the "racing line" at 30 mph, I just pull off and rejoin. Its less frustrating and cheaper than binning a bike.
Ouch that hurts....this is a 'There but for grace of god go I' if ever I saw one ....I feel for you fella

I think you have to find out if the frame is bent / repairable....and this will decide which way you go

Winter is a good time to rebuild....as said parts are cheaper so it cuts both ways

At best new tank (05 tanks are easier to come by and cheaper as everybody wants bigger tank) exhausts (see about Akrapovic rebuild kit) face mask, most people change MK1 SD using MK2 SD parts so most of the bits you want have lower value

At worst SD motors are sought after by SE and Adventure Riders advertise on their forum, Germany seems to have a healthy trade in SD parts
This forum is worldwide so you have a big audience for parts (lots of people who may not be thinking of selling parts that they have collected might be tempted to help and sell them to you)

Use this thread as a window to rebuild your bike ...giving up dates as you go......best of luck

....Just thought I have a set of standard bars you can have
Cheers buddy.

Just stripping it now. I'll post up more shortly. Tbh the more I get into it the more bits I can see that are salvageable. As long as I don't mind a few scuffs here and there and just vinyl up the bad panels it could turn out ok. Mask is fixable. Just need rev counter screen and speedo assembly. Brackets will bend back and can just vinyl over the full thing.
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Bike's stripped. As it sits here it's fine. Slackened yokes and forks sprung straight. Forks are straight with no leaks. Steering head is fine, stripped and re greased up head bearings. Steering stop bolts have small bend but it's nothing. No cracking on frame or any signs of fatigue under magifying glass. Because it was so muddy the bikes just sunk into the ground when it was rolling so it's broke a few bits off but the muds absorbed the major impact.

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Unsalvagable parts here.
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Possible salvagable parts here.....
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I'm prepared to just run the tank like this, or maybe get it vinyl coated.
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Side panels can be vinyl covered. The mounting tags will epoxy of plactic weld back no probs
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Radiator is twisted. Might be chaper to get it recored than buy used
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Headlamp mask and clocks. Hmmmmm, what to do about this. Mask will plastic weld ans epoxy up of and remount, then just cover it in vinyl to make it look lie a battle mask. Will need speedo assembly with temp guage and fuel guage. Hoping someone may have a complete one lying i can buy.
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THE DEFINATIVE LIST

BIKE IS BEING REBUILT TO BARE MINIMUM TRACK/ROAD LEGAL SPEC

All parts requred are.......

2005 Superduke

Handle bars
Clutch master cylinder
Left hand switch gear for lights/horn/indicators
Ignition barrel with key. ----- May just do away with this if it's going to cost too much and just make a kill switch
Speedo assembly with fuel and temp guage
Rev counter
Mask
Instrument housing
Throttle tube
Grips
Bar ends
Radiator --------- May be able to get re-cored
Fan Switch
Top RG Racing crash bung ends
Exhaust Y Piece
End cans and clamps
Tail light
Subframe ---- May be able to straighten this out
Subframe inner trim/undertray assembly

Just typing out that list i can see there are loads of smaller bits that you guys may have lying about after upgrading. Bar ends, standard throttle tube, maybe full mask assembly etc etc.

Planning on leaving off indicators and anything else not required.

If anyone has some bits and bobs lying about please PM me or post up in here.
If you're going down the track / hooligan bike I think you'll do OK
If at later date you want to sell the bike and it turns out to be worth nothing, you could break it and you wouldn't get significantly less for the parts then you would now !!

Here's what I do

used battle bike mask £60
used rad with less damage £180 maybe worth getting yours fixed, not sure on cost but worth looking into?
pushbike speedo £20
leds for fuel light neutral etc £2
as you've said glue and vinyl the panels £30 ??
Handle bars see Bigash's thread about flat bars he really rates them, good as time as any!! £100 ish
used akros £300
lever mount £30 used if you can get one otherwise it's dealer I'd guess at £70
switch for ignition £2
Swithgear again you may find used for £30 or I'd guess £50 from dealer.

things like the battle mask do come up on ebay or here once in a while so you may have to bide your time but they will come up.

You could also repair your current headlight mask for road use and use the battle one at the track.
And you are away !!
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holly crap you really crashed that thing.
The good part is that you are ok, fixing you would cost a lot more than fixing the bike.
Now you can have a track bike and really enjoy it and not (really) worry about crashing again.
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Had a good laugh. The camera kept on running for 45mins after the crash. Absolutley priceless.

You can hear the recovery marshals maving to bike out the van and all chatting about it. Quite reassuring as i was expecting to hear them all slaggin me but instead they were all saying how it was good i was ok.

Then the jokes started, saying to each other "hey, be carefull you dont scratch it".
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Sorry and couldnt resist,nothing to do with the 2 tampon post but

Had abit of fun with the wife last night whist she was sleeping,
Swopped her tampon for a party popper.
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Sorry to hear about your crash but glad to hear your not badly hurt,i reckon rebuilding it making a track/hooligan stunt bike is the way to go m8
It's the 61035010000 radiator i need. The 07- is 61035110000. Not sure what the differences are.

Jody..........if you read this can you fire up a pic of how your battle mask is mounted and laid out.

Cheers
if it,s any consulation viking my mate broke his thema and tibia on the last session when some stupid cow t boned him
you might have seen here she was the one with the old fireblade with a arse the size of the back of a van
was nice to meet you, hope you get back on the road/track soon
Good to hear you,re not hurt to bad,sickner about bike,but I would do same as yourself and fix her up ,a few battle scars just makes it look meaner!
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THE DEFINATIVE LIST

BIKE IS BEING REBUILT TO BARE MINIMUM TRACK/ROAD LEGAL SPEC

All parts requred are.......

2005 Superduke

Handle bars---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sourced from BASH
Clutch fluid resevoir and pipe---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Bought from Jim Aim Racing Site
Left hand switch gear for lights/horn/indicators
Ignition barrel with key. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Fitting master switch on dash instead
Speedo assembly with fuel and temp guage----------------------------------------------------------------------------Sourced form DUC985
Rev counter----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Sourced from DUC985
Mask with Instrument housing(either battle or 05 with headlamp and top guage mount trim assy)------------Sourced from DUC985
Throttle tube---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Sourced from BASH
Grips------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Sourced from Samba
Bar ends
Radiator -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Bought on Ebay
Exhaust Y Piece--------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------Sourced from Samba
End cans and clamps-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Sourced from Samba
Tail light-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Sourced from BASH
Subframe ---- May be able to straighten this out
Subframe inner trim/undertray assembly------------------------------------------------------------------------------Sourced from BASH

If anyone has some bits and bobs lying about please PM me or post up in here.

Fitted a lever to the clutch master cyl and cleaned it out. Works fine so thats saved me a big bill there!

It's only been a few days but i'm stunned at the support for all you guys. Being honest, i would have had to break the bike if you guy weren't stepping up and helping. I'm not a rich man so will be paying for this bill until the start of next seasons riding so the deals and fair prices you guys are offering is greatly aprreciated. Still loads to get but a big thanks so far.

There you go, a bit emotion for your monday morning.
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I've got some grips (nothing fancy) I can bung in with the cans if you like, assuming Stew's (BASH) throttle tube doesn't have a grip on it?
you well and truely fooked her didn't ya fella. its all fun and games until it all goes wrong.

just in case your still going to rebuild, I got a complent ignition set including tank and seat lock + 2 keys for 60 notes with postage, brand new only a few months ago. I used an old post by klink. and lucky for you I found it again for you.
http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/KTM/990_Sup ... _Lock_Set/
Here you go
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I had to make the hole in the top of the mask for the rev counter, I then made a u shaped bracket to hold it in place, I re-enforced it with my favourite, tape and cable ties !!!!

I have removed the tilt switch but if you want to keep it there is a bracket on the inside of the mask it goes on. DO NOT do what I did when I first fitted a mask, leave it loose then come on here crying coz your bike only runs for 5 seconds then cuts out !

I do have some switchgear available but it's not for a SD so could be a nightmare to fit, let me know if you get stuck and I'll see if I can dig it out and get some pics for you.
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Sorry to here of your accident but looking at the pictures I recon a bit of T-cut could sort the lot....
That's the one i'm watching.

Got deal from DUC985 in germany for a full mask with speedo and rev counter. I was looking at aftermarket dash inserts with revs, water temp etc on them but they were working out the same price as the deal and looked like a bit of a fiddle to get wired in. At least now it's just plug and play

I've cut the back off the headlamp and took out the reflector so now it's just the lens and mounting lugs left. Then i can vinyl over it all and have the original rev counter and speedo. Not too bothered about speedo but temp guage is handy so would have been mouting one of those in anyway.

Way It will look is 05 mask graphic'd up with std instruments and a main kill switch moulded into where the key would be and will try and mount a gear indicator in there flush too. Will prob vinyl over the dash area with black or carbon effect then mount the instruments so it looks well finished. Right bar will have std switch gear and kill switch/start button.

Left bar will have nothing and i'll wire up a little push button for the horn when it's mot time and secure it on. (unless a switch assy comes up cheap)

No mirrors indicators or lights, only a stop lamp.

Lower crash bungs hardly took any of the scuff and all they did is bend. So will do away with then and just run top ones. Try and just use the two good (ish) ends from the left side.

Mask/side panels and rear panels i'm thinking about just covering all them in white vinyland being smart with some well placed stickers. KTM, WP, and a few other related brands. Think just a plain white with black stickers will be easy and look striking enough if they're well placed. Might even go for a number but that could look crap withthe std seat on it. Dunno yet, open to opinions on it all. I remember seeing a Red Bull Racing graphics kit a while back. Dunno if they still do that.

Went Ebay tastic today and combined with all the guys on here steping up it looks like ive not go much left to get.
Left switch gear if it comes around cheap
Bar ends ('m sure someone will have standard bar ends lying about somewhere)
Then all the mechanical bits, straighten subframs and brake lever, rewire ignition switch, break tyre beads and take grass out
Hi everyone. I've pm'd a few of you guys so far.

I've got about 12 separate deals arranged. Tried to pm a few of you this morning but running out of time so posting here instead.

If all goes through it looks like I've got everything I need. Is there any chance you guys could pm me or post up on here when you dispatch the parts, or if we're still finalising a deal, let me know and I'll send over payment.

Everything's coming together so trying to arrange a free day so I can get it rebuilt. Just trying to make sure I get everything here and I can kill it in a day and give it a run up the street to see if there's anything else I have missed.

Cheers
G
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Don't know if you need one, but I remember a Bracken Duke a few years ago, with a GSX-R K5 seat unit. It was in Fast Bikes, and it looked pretty good.
Maybe it's an idea, ansd probably easier to find/ cheaper.
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I did look into that mate. I like the look of it but in the end decided against it. The bill is really adding up now. Sitting at about £1000 that i dont have!
Right then , update time.

Lesson learn today. Dont crash your bike. It's a feckin nightmare. It's not just all the obvious damage, it's all the little bits that go along with it. Crash bungs bent lugs that hang from frame and ripped threads out of captive nuts. Had to strip it down, bend it back, then grind off captive nut housings an fit 2x nuts instead. Lots if silly little bent brackets that had to be heated up and tweaked slightly to get back straight.

Managed to get in a full 8hours on it today. Have been doing bits and bobs in any spare time so i'm sitting at about 15hours so far. A fair bit of that has been plastic welding any salvagble bodywork, re soldering up wiring looms........ along with a bit of faffing about, picking muck out of things and general chin rubbing deciding on which way to go with it to make it how i want it but keep the bill to a minimum and keep the bike simple.

So here is the bike as it sat at about lunchtime. Subframe is still a tiny bit out, but this exaggerates to about 3-4mm at the tail end. Will have to spend a fair bit of time getting cans/panels and seat lined up.
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Had to pretty much remake the dash as it was twisted and ripped. Filled in a blank to cover hole for ign. Replaced ignition barrel with master switch, then covered with carbon effect vinyl. Should look pretty good once mask and instrument arrive.
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Decided to keep it simple and do panels in white vinyl. Always thought the bike would look good with flashes of white. Going to put a black KTM Racing graphic on side panel where Superduke was.

Contacted LR Designs and getting front and side number boards. Tweaked the Red bull design i found on here. Ordered a race style seat cowl (the pointy one, not the flat one).....

1st time working with vinyl wrapping. Almost starting to ge the hang of it now but it's really frustrating. Looks ok from a distance bit it shows every tiny ripple or imperfection in the panel underneath. A few little creases but generally it good enough for what the bike is being built as.

Here is how it sits at 7pm tonight when i ran out of light. Dont let the pic kid you. Everythings just laid on with 1 bolt to get an idea how it will look
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Still waiting on radiator. Mask, instruments etc are on their way from germany from DUC985. Bars, undertray, rear light and throttle tube on the way from BASH


Any input on things will be appreciated. Never been one for design. White rim tape??? Yeah or no??
It's your bike, make it look like ya want, but we all know blacked out SD's are badass .....and faster.
Black ones crash better too. Hoping I have more luck with white.

There's some long time owners on here who will have seem every incarnation of SD. They might be able to give some heads up on some cool idea they may have seen on a previous bike. Quite liking the black and white look so far though.
The best 2 bikes in the history of underpowerd twins with dodgy fueling are Dans red bull rep and Millar's beautiful Akro scheme (which had a lot of white.)
Your repair is coming on well ans at top speed.
This subframe went in the bin, well after I rode it for another 8 months.

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Holy sheeet Pete!!

My subframe is nowhere near as bad as that. Managed to heat it up and get a slight bend on it before it started to crack. Packed out the cans with a few washers on the right side and they're passable now.

BTW, for superduke parts, Ebay germany is the absolute shiz. Bit of faffing about in translate but there's a lot of decent stuff on there with low reserves.
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Coming together now. About 80% there.

Had to start it to bleed out the coolant so snapped a quick You Tube esq vid to show the progress.



I'm pretty happy with how its' turned out so far. I got some orange and silver KTM decals but they stood out too much. Think i'm gonna leave it plain black and white.

LR Designs have designed me some number boards which are tweeked versions of Superdan's Red Bull ones. (cant seem to get them to upload to servimg just now). Waiting on seat hump to arrive.

Bought a trick little gear indicator with programable shift lights that i'm going to cut and mould in the dash.

Still to loads to do though.

Spec list will look like this..........
SAS removed
Snorkel removed
Black and orange Pazzo copy levers
Black bars
Renthal grips
No indicators or lights
Custom quick release tail tidy
LSL Steering Damper
Cordoba Quickshifter
PC3 with UK Leo Vince map
Leo Vince carbon cans and y piece
16/40 gearing
Reduced steering lock
Custom quick action throttle
Custom dash and master switch with gear indicator and shift lights
Carbon lorraine brake pads
Vinly covered body panels
Alloy foot pegs
Seeing as you have bars, throttle, grips and a rear light I'll assume my parcel arrived dude
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Nice job with the rebuild so quick. It is nice to see everyone pull together and help out with getting you parts so quickly. Guess thats the SuperDduke Brotherhood...
Fair Play..............Its like this rebuild is on ...Fast forward

Looking good
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Made a little housing form the PC3 from a sponge and some gaffa tape.
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Here's the LR design rip off's of Superdans Red Bull ones. . Rear seal cowl arrives tommorrow so will get these all fitted by end of the week. Should really change the look of it.
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Wired in the gear indicator and shift ligts. Changed the screen colour to orange. Just gotta program it in to the gears once the cluch master cylinder and instruments arrive.
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There was a little plastic L hose missing from the end of the clutch cylinder. Doesn't come seperate and i'm not paying 250quid for a new one . Found one from a breakers in Texas from eBay USA so that should be here in a week. Managed to get it for £70 all in so it was well worth the search. UK ebay is pretty low on parts. I it's the USA or germany were all the steals are for replacement bits and bobs. Seem to be alot of companys breaking bikes over there.
Wow, just read the whole thread as I haven't visited for a few weeks and you've done bloody well to get to where you are. Shame I didn't check earlier as I've got a whole 2005 and more in spares.
Really great work on the rebuild.

This video reminds me how nasty the superduke sounds when you start it up.
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It's a cracking little bit of kit. Loads of screen colours. Shifts lights are adjustable etc.

It is wired-
Red to ignition live
Brown to good earth (you'll have to extend this wire down to the battery, yoke isn't a good enough earth.)
Blue goes to the blue/white wire from ecu to tacho (3pin plug on right)
Green goes to speedo pulse signal. Just put the new mask on and forgot already. It'd either the black/orange or the brown/black in the 3pin plug coming from speed sensor. Just poke an led test light up the back of the plug with it all plugged on and ignition on and turn the wheel. You'll see a faint on/off of the led lamp as the bolts pass the sensor when your on the right one.
The white is for set up. You touch it to earth to cycle through the options and set everything up. I still have to set it up for gears but not got a clutch master cyl yet so can't ride it. Dunno how accurate it will be.
When you hoping to have it all done and dusted? me and the ex have split last weekend so i have some spare cash so was thinking of getting another track day in at some point this year if you fancied it?
Saw your Facebook update but didn't know if it was a wind up or not. As long as your cool that's the main thing. Get out on the town with the crock suit on, you'll do a power of damage.

It won't be out on track again this year big guy. Bill isn't far off 1500quid now. Gotta clear that then build up some cash before I hit next years trackdays. Want to try and get one trackday a month absolute minimum from march to October next year.

Plan is to toggle between all the tracks with in 4-5 hours drive. So Anglsey, Oulton, Cadwell. Maybe even stretch down to Donnington for the odd one.

I've got a score to settle with Oulton now I see Skip's done a 1min 58 and Jody did a 1min 55 on standard bikes. . I've got number boards and flashy lights on my bike now so it shouldn't be a problem. That in itself is worth 5sec a lap
Finished dash. Cheers to Duc985 for supplying mask and instruments.
Pretty happy with this if I do say so myself. Nice and simple but effective.


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95% finished now.

Had to add the WP sticker to the side panel as the panels and vinyl wrap are a wee bit tatty close up so this hides the worst bits. What do you guys think?

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....amazing ...and so quick
looks better than before dude lol, sterling job! i know whos door im knocking on if i have an off!
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Nice
Awesome result! especcialy considering the damage and the amount of time it took you to get it back to this!
(just checked: not even two weeks between the crash and this! HOLY CR*P!!)
Incredibly fast....nice job.
The white looks good
Cheers guys. Glad you all think it looks ok. Wasn't sure of all the decals, thought it makes it look quite bitty. It's not tidy enough to have really plain though. (Might be my semi ocd tendencies coming on on that one though )

Luckily I've mostly been on backshifts the last week, had a few short 5hr shifts and a few days off too so managed to get stuck in. Finished work at 1am, bed by 2am, up at 7am to run the dog, gym at 9am, home and make all meals for the day in advance then work on the bike from 11am till 3pm. On my days off I was out there from 11am until it got dark at about 7pm. There's about 35 hours work in it, then all the eBay searching and pm'ing you guys on top. My fiancee knows I cant settle if I know there's something needs done so she's just left me to it

There's no point having it lying there in bits and feeling down. It needed fixed, the bill was gonna be whatever it was gonna be. So registered a zero % credit card on paypal and with all your help got the bits through pretty sharp.

I'm starting my winter rosta at work now so will pretty much be doing 11hr shifts for 8days, have 1 day off and repeat until end of Feb. I've only got a small shed with no power as you see in the background in some earlier pics so didn't fancy being out there with a torch in the winter trying to piece it all back together.
good to see you back on the road/track
see you again at knockhill
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Where did you get the WP decals for the front shocks? I have looked and looked and not found them... thanks!!!
It looks awesome. I love the decal look...Looks Ricky Racer to me.
Here you go matey

Fork leg ones with clear background


These are the ones on the side panels with the black background
have you got a part number and link for the gear indicator and shift light... it just became No.1 on my list
Here you go. Great company to deal with. Answered and emails pretty much straight away and happy to help out with any questions I had.


Can't wait to get a run on it and see those shift lights working. They start at the outer edges as green, then turn Orange as they come in, and then red and start flashing. I set it to start at 8k rpm and end at 9300 so they come on nice n smooth and progressively.
Thanks

very cool, cheaper than i thought it would be
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speed sensor and rpm sensor... and a bit of magic thrown in
speed sensor and rpm sensor... and a bit of magic thrown in
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it also says self learn gear calculation
Hey Viking, looks like your build is coming along great. You requested some pictures of my bike a while, back. Bone head me I posted the in a different section of this forum, tring to post in a rush at work break time. The pictures are still there, in the Tech section Dr. F words of wisdom and under the post Does your SD have an oil leak at the base..... page three.
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Made a better vid of the crash...................

Dunno if anyones still reading this thread............

......but if you are........ clutch master cylider arrived today. So finally got a run on the bike.

Feels good. Everythings tracking straight, no strange handling or anything untoward.

Set up the gear display. Just to note to the guys who are doing this.When you set it into gear inticator set up mode you have to go within a few seconds of activating it or it shows a fault. Touch white wire to earth to go into set up, touch it again when it shows gear display selection, then go immediately. If you go a bit higher up the rpm the more accurate it is. Dont have to go nuts, just to about 4000rpm in 1st, then it'll flash to second, speed up a bit, and repeat through the box. Just need along quiet stretch of road to do it right.

Very very impressed with this little bit of kit. It's super accurate. Even trying to trip it up it instantly shows the gear. He only way to confuse it is to roll along at 2mph with the clutch in and blip the throttle and it will jump up to3rd, then instantly back down to 1st as it works out wat your doing. But out on the road riding it changes instantly at any rpm.


Bike feels good with the improved version of the homemade quick throttle i made. The thinner Reanthal grips on Bash's bars feel nice too. New longer levers instead of the stubbys i ran previously are alot easier to ride with especially on braking. Spent a lot of time properly bleeding out the clutch and brakes to get the levers feeling good,

Removed the secondary flies and shafts. Another very good mod, bike picks up quicker off the throttle and has a noticable amount of low-mid rpm power

Might just be in my head but it feels lighter. Had a few mid hight wheelies and just kept snicking it up the gears with the quickshifter an it felt effortless where as before it sometimes felt like it needed a bit of a handfull to keep it up there.

Very happy with it.
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