DEAD !

So went for a ride up to Alices Restaurant via Tunitas Creek Rd. today ( Tunitas Creek road is about 8 miles of tight twisty and loads of fun ).....
Before getting there bike stalled at stop light for no apparent reason but re-started.

I fuel up and get on my way to Tunitas Creek Rd, and about 4 miles up she DIES on me. Gauges work - signals work - break lights work - headlight - horn etc etc BUT just won't crank when hitting the start button ( Red kill switch in correct position )......

check a whole bunch of stuff out under the seat / pull BGC apart ( the one i could get to ) check fused and try again and NO START - Everything is fine but NO CRANKY..... gauges all worked - no error lights - everything seemed good other than won't crank...
Thought about side stand switch since i've heard of it giving problems but no tools can didn't take apart - just made sure wires look'd ok .

stranded 20 miles from home up a lonely road - call a friend to come bail me out with his pickup .. He says OK ..

I start coasting back down the hill about 3 miles or so ( kinda bumpy a bit ) and towards the bottom i decide to check if she'll crank .. And she does in fact... Actually fired up and i made the return trip home about 20 miles.

Does this sound like that Side Stand Switch is going out ??

cheers

Clearly something loose. Side-stand switch sounds like a good place to start. Good luck finding it.

Or the clutch switch or tip over switch.

If it was the side-stand sensor it would always start in neutral, wouldnt it?

I has this stupid problem when i crashed the bike.. Under the seat there is a black colored "blind-connection". Its an extra cable for i.e alarm etc. Have you checked that one?

Was the fuel pump cycling during your troubles?

It makes noise, but it should still crank over. Check your battery connections. I've had a similar incident twice, once was a secondary battery terminal bolt had loosened. The second was one terminal on the battery was loose. I was getting lots of FI lights and occasional stalling, followed by a no start after fueling the second time. All lights, no crank.

Well -------- Here's an Update !!!

took apart the sidestand and cleaned everything up / the magnetics ... Chain grease. Went into the battery box and separated the sidestand switch plugs , all looked very clean and i had already treated w/ dielectric grease . Checked over the battery terminals on the new Anti-Gravity LiFePo battery all's good two shoes there as well.

Have been romping the bike pretty hard for the past couple days and no hangups or return symptoms - Was supposto pick up a sidestand removal kit from Scuderia in SF but they said back ordered - get a call today from Dante at parts counter says he's got some in now.

Ride the Hell out of it again up Devils Slide out to SF and pick the kit up - Everything seems cool and my confidence is climbing again .... Well on the way back i'm at about 4,000rpm in 3rd gear which is very easy on the bike and i grab a handfull of throttle , rpm's climb to about 5,000 and BWUAHAAAAAAAAAA She falls flat like a pancake !!! In the past 15 thou miles i put on the bike she's NEVER done that before other than this current issue over the past several weeks ....

Anyway i back off the throttle and at least the bike's still running ... compared to the other day going up Tunitas Creek Rd. when it bogged on me in second gear it just lost ALL as i already mentioned in previous post here.

So there we go again ---- some strange behavior returns ... I have the side stand removal kit in hand and will install as soon as possible ( tomorrow - fri ) hopefully - and hopefully be done with this - otherwise i have a feel'n i'm gona be stranded again soon ....... time will tell...

The little switch kit is so simple - the sidestand switch connections are in the battery compartment - simply unplug the actual sidestand switch from there and unscrew the magnetic part from the sidestand and remove the 2ft of wire w/ magnet gizzy and just plug the new KIT on plug there in battery compartment ... Tuck the new little black box in there and go rid'n..... hopefully .....

Anyway - these couple issues of late have gotten me to be less intimidated by this complex electronic system on these bikes - My first time having a computerized bike with a MAP - i was totally blown away by it all. Doin better Doin better ... If i haven't mentioned it already - thankx for any help i've gotten here. thnx again

cheers updates will follow

I don't like the sound of it falling flat but still running. To me that doesn't sound electrical. In the main electrical
problems tend to be either the electrons are jumping or they ain't. Did it pick up straight away to full power?

Those that know me already know how much I hate the SD implementation of the tip over switch (sometimes
known as the roll-angle sensor switch). Might be time to consider Crotchrockety's suggestion.

Nah the one that detects that you are at 50 degrees and you'd like to power out of the corner. The one that then cuts the
engine so you have to stand the bike up where its 'nice and safe'. If the 'nice and safe' zone has anything hard in it
it turns on the bike to hard object magnet. It's supposed to be a safety switch that kills the engine when you fall over
but at least two of mine have decided to ignore the safety function and go for fun instead.

Its located in the headlight shell and when malfunctioning can sort of kill the engine under hard acceleration,
hard deceleration, steep slopes, high lean angles, or for no fooking reason at all. I'm still riding one of my
SD's with the thing disabled. Put a brand new one in recently and had troubles again. Don't know why they can't just put
mechanical kill switches into Oggy knobs.

a little disappointed , but not too surprised - installed the sidestand bypass kit today and the cutting out persists ....

this time twice within just a couple minutes apart - rolling along in 3rd about 4k rpm and pull a WOT test ( taking about 3 seconds to crank throttle wide open ) and OUT she goes !!!! This time FI light comes on for about 4 seconds ...... Bike seems to fuel back up or whatever it's doing and onward and forward i go .... shifting through gears normally etc .....

Half a mile down the road i see if i can duplicate the mess ---- Same scenario --- 3rd gear rolling along , crank er open and Buwaahhhh / FI light and same thing ... Release throttle and everything stabilizes and away i go ....

Only thing i can say for sure this time is i was at WOT for about 1 second before FI light flashes and she cuts out .......

Next stop - i called the shop inquiring about the Tip Over switch and i suspect it's gona be expensive to get a new one... But i'm wondering if this has something to do with throttle position sensing ???

The part of this that twists my brain most is how the bike completely wouldn't start that day it stranded me on Tunitas Creek Rd. Bike hasn't completely stalled down and refuse to start again since that day ... Hummmmmmmm

Dont suppose you know what the error code is? Have you got TuneECU?
Tip over switch is fairly cheap but just disconnect it and see if things keep stalling. You'll
get an F1 error for sure but thats telling you theres a problem with the tip over switch.
Could be throttle position sensor.
Could be fuel pump.
Could be tank vacumn.
Could be ...

Just an afterthought: This doesn't happen about 9500Rpm does it

Th reason I asked about TuneECU cable is that it shows the error codes - a lot easier than trying to count
the flashing lights whilst you have a fist full of throttle. You don't have to change anything - you can use
it to just look. It may well point you at TPS - if so check other things first. Other members have had
similar problems cause by moisture in the Big Grey Plug (BGP).

With TuneECU you can see and set your rev limit. I assume the previous owner wouldn't have lowered it slightly.

15 minute reset won't do any harm but I'm dubious that it will help with your problem. Nobody really knows
how the 15 minute rest works - it's just recommended by KTM. Given that it doesn't change any map settings
or anything else that can be seen it's assumed that it must change some other values stored in the ECU. Those
values must be used by the ECU for fine tuning or something like that. I can't recall anyone ever reporting
radical changes with it but sure give it a go you never know your luck in the big city ...

That Avatar - it bears a remarkable resemblance to me when I was about twenty - a long time ago

If you have not done this yet and you have 15k on the bike. I would order a new fuel pump filter kit. I had some of the same problems that you are having. What I mean by some of the same. Is my bike started cutting out like it was hitting the rev limiter. It started only doing it after a few hours of riding. But then it got more persistant. It only took 20 minutes of riding before it starting bogging at 5k rpm. There are two filter installed in the fuel pump. One is the normal paper canister type. The other is a tea bag like filter. The tea bag one is the one that causes the engine to starve first.

I could not figure this problem out for some time. I called my dealer. Which they replied by saying that they had nerver herd of this problem. Go figure. Then by stroke of luck. Some one on this site had the same problems as me.
He ordered the filter kit and posted photo of the install. And reported the bike running proper know. So I ordered the kit online. Btw this kit retails at over $120 US dollars. I found it for under $90 dollars online. The install was simple and took less than two hours to do. Now my bike no longer stalls or cuts out below rev limiter.

I ride the same roads as you and use the same gas. How is your tank doing. I just had mine replaced due to it streching and forming bumps that looked like it had the mumps. And my bike only has less than 6k on the clocks.
2008 SDR.

Good luck.

Robert

Sounds like the tilt switch to me,i had all the same issue's last year.Spent ages fooking about swapping,checking everything out,even repositioned the tilt switch in my race mask, had Colonel Klinck hook up his lap top and check TPS unit borrowed the regulator of Motoronins spare SDR everything failed Jody turns up and pulls the tilt switch apart and leaves it disconected and bingo.......not had a problem since barring the F1 light flashing for the tilt.

It's very easy to unplugg so worth doing before anything else

No it wasen't me. But i was up at alices last saturday.

I have to Agree with Sabre. You should first disconnect your tilt switch. But I would think if it was the tilt switch, the motor would die every time. And you would have to pull over or pull the clutch in and hit the starter to re fire. But I could be wrong.

A little more about getting your tank replaced under warranty.
Ktm will not replace your tank because It has streached. But if it starts developing bumps this can cause the tank to crack and leak. This is a safety issue that forces Ktm to replace your tank at no cost to you.

Here's the simple rollover switch ... it sits right at the top of the headlight mask inside ..
Feels like a simple ball bearing inside the plastic housing and rolls around in there about 3/4" it seems from side to side.

not much else to say , apparently others have had the same symptoms i have been experiencing and when removing this or replacing it seemed to stop the stalling problem.

cheers

can this part be bypassed? if so, anyone know how? mine is fine, but the wiring conector broke during the crash and I have no clue what color wire goes where.....

i posted the question of if it's possible to disable the FI light after removing this Roll over sensor to an Electrical Engineer from another forum , here's his response ...


John,

I can't be sure without a schematic for the bike, and maybe even then I wouldn't
be positive. There are a number of possibilities. From easiest to hardest, here
they are.

1. The ECU lights the light once it detects a "rollover," which could either be
a real rollover or a bad sensor. After you removed the sensor, it no longer
detects the rollover, but it doesn't turn the light off until it's reset. You
can reset the alarm light if you have an OBD-II reader tool. If you don't, they
have them at AutoZone, and they'll reset your light for free if you bring the
bike in and show them where the diagnostic connector is (usually somewhere under
the seat). This is too easy.

2. The ECU is detecting an open circuit on the sensor wire, which means the
sensor is disconnected, which lights the light. You have to figure out what
voltage a good sensor sends to the ECU when the bike isn't tipped over, then
apply that voltage to the sensor wire. Then you might have to reset the light as
in #1. This is most likely the situation on your bike.

3. The sensor sends a digital message to the ECU over the CAN-BUS, say every
minute or so. The message is something like "Hi, this is the rollover switch,
and I'm OK." If the ECU doesn't get the message, it lights the light. It's
impossible to fake this system out without a lot of talent and effort. It's
unlikely your bike uses something like this, I think only BMW has engineering
OCD this bad.

The silicone was my first idea after looking at the sensor and wiring but I simply didn't have a tube started so I taped/blocked/wedged mine so that it was non functional when I changed headlight masks. It now resides under the tank with much of the other headlight wiring.

FYI!

I'm happy you found your problem. But I think you are going in the wrong direction to correct it. Unlike safety sticker warnings. This is a true safety device that should not be disabled unless it has failed. And only temporary till it can be replaced. I suppose you could replace it with a racing style deadman tether kill switch attached to your wrist. It is a life saving device.

Maybe I'm being a little dramatic here. But a few month back while riding my Ktm 300 dirtbike. I was climbing a technical section that had very loose dirt. The bike looped on me catching my hand between the hand guard and the throttle. I fell back over the bike with my hand trapped in the hand guard with the throttle wide open. I was lucky that no body parts were caught in the wheel or chain. And the back tyre did not catch traction again. I remember being terrified at the sound of the engine running at full throttle and the back tyre spinning inches away from me. I was lucky to walk away with just a sprained wrist. Just think of that happing on the Street.