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Model differences and buying a used SD what to know.

25 posts · Started by Superdan · 14 Feb 2012

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Right people keep posting up this question so an official thread to be added to by owners with their thoughts and anything I have missed.

So your looking at buying a new or used superduke and want to be cool, lets have a look at the model history and what might be best for you, as well as what else to look out for.

First Superdukes came out in late 2005 the model remained unchanged until 2007 (when the US guys first got a glimpse so no pre 07 there). They had smaller tanks and do about 90 miles, they also have softer springs front and rear, so if your over 13 stone, springs might be a little soft, also if your into track days many 05-06 owners scrape the engine cases. The 05-06 bikes also had a sharper steering head angle making it a bit more flighty and fun (arguably) bottom line 05-06 SD'd were brutal and fun, reserved for true connaseur .

You could get these in Titanium, Black and Orange, despite lots of banter of which are quickest I can guarentee its titanium .

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In 2006 there was a Superduke battle in the UK, a BSB support race some were road registered afterwards but fairly easy to spot, with garish colour schemes and different suspension components to OEM.

In 2007 there was a facelift, also received bigger tank, better clocks, now about 120 mile tank range, slight geometry change to the steering head angle, radial brakes and slightly stiffer suspension front and rear, they also introduced the R version with orange frame, on the 07R model had no power increase to the standard SD, it came with a steering damper as standard and much more track focused with solo seat and harder suspension. The 07 SD has not changed since apart from very minor changes and believe 08 on got a black swingarm.

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Colours stayed the same(ish) for 07 but other colours have been and gone, such as white, a garish olive with white frame which no one has owned up to having one yet……

In 2008 they brought out an upgraded Superduke R WITH a power increase (exhaust and engine mods), the easiest way of checking if it is an 08 SDR is by looking at the exhaust headers it has the AKAPOVIC logo stamped on it by the bellypan, there was also a Superduke R battle series to some of the R 08 bikes may be ex track bikes.

Again apart from colour (white plastics) the 2012 bike is a bit of a parts bin special sdr/sd hybrid they have now added a double seat instead, ditched the SDR headers from 08-11 and is now 123bhp compared to 130 for the 08-11 SDR still pokier than the SD not sure if they have changed some of the internals though with that 7bhp loss, still got the SDR suspension though by looks of it:

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Looks like KTM are just getting rid of old stock now ready for the new SD to be launched for 2013 .

Consensus of opinion is, if you do lots of track days and a bit of road buy the R as the suspension is more harsh but better for track, if you ride lots of roads buy the SD, but the standard SD is still a weapon in the right hands on track.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING:

SD engines are fairly bombproof, lots of high milage examples on here and no major recalls.

When you start it it up the toque limiter on the starter on 05-06 models (07 models were redesigned) make a nasty noise (sometimes) but no ill effects.

You can get the odd leak here and there on cylinders if your not careful so take a good look, when your getting to 15,000miles the water pump generally needs replacing as the seal goes 100euro job at home if your mechanically minded.

Dont know anyone who has had any issues with head bearings.

Some 07 bikes had misted clocks replaced under warranty but milage was not added.

Leaks around master cylinder and rear shock.

Check the straightness and any cracking in the powder coating of the the frame lugs where the footrests bolt on, these bend in a crash. They are easily bent back but its a dead give away!


But just like any bike, check service history, chips on wheels indicating lots of tyre changes, both keys damage etc and if in doubt ask us!

EDIT thought I would add in a recent RIDE article.


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Thanks Dan!
Also note a change to Radial front brake calipers in 2007/8

jon
Great work dude /sips coffee and give a nod of approval
Great job Dan, should be helpful to a lot of new buyers (like me ).
Maybe something about the on/off throttle response that can be fixed on all years and maybe the difference in cams between the old and new model?
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I meant the claimed smoother throttle on newer models shouldn't be a big plus to choosing your model year since all SD's can be 'cured'.
Im pretty sure it says radial brakes 07 on and orange frame chaps if you read it again you could go on about the r version having black footrest adjusters but the essentials are all there.
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This topic should be a sticky
Great post.
Agreed this should be a sticky.

Read thru, seems there are no changes from the 08'SD to current.
Fantastic,

.......and just in time as I'm currently shopping for one!!

Mucho thanks....
Should do the same thing for the different "models' of SD/SDR riders
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In the owners manual for the 2012 model it shows the rev counter only going to the 9800 redline of the base model.

No Akra headers, no 'R' internals and therefore probably the standard 48mm TBs
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I'll know more for certain soon as somebody I know has one on order which should arrive next week. Might only have retained the R bar clamps and black trees from the true R model.

Geometry aside, are there any differences in the forks between models?
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Something you might want to look out for as milage creeps is wear to the wiring loom,might sound odd but I sold my SD with 28k miles on it, just prior to selling I had had a couple of problems,the first was where the three wires come out of the reg/rec and bend over the edge of the battery box the wires had worn through on two of them and was half way through the third,the second was where the wiring joins and runs up from the battery box area towards the ecu the loom sits against the frame just below the tank,it had worn through the outer heat shrink and broke the wire to my rear lambda sensor.The second one was a bitch to find.
I repaired them both with solder and heat shrink and also I cut back the edge of the battery box a little in an effort to stop it rubbing on the wires and I also fitted extra,thicker heat shrink to the wiring where it ran up against the frame,gotta love those V twin vibes
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Cool, I've got the cheaper one
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