Recommended final mods before Dyno on my 07 SD--HELP--

Hi
Just wanted to hear with you guys before sending my bike to the dyno
This is the mods I already have done to my 07 Superduke;
- full akra titanium exhaust without baffles. (do you think i need a totally different map if i want to put the baffles back in ? )
- power commander 3 with 02 eliminators (have now bought tune ecu cable , so pc3 will be removed and a custom tune ecu map made during dyno)
- MH airbox kit ready to be mounted (airbox,sas, secondary flies)
- Sas system will be removed, nut sure about butterflies.. mount the secondary flies or remove the whole stuff ?
Any other mods you recommend me to do ? want the most out of the engine without opening it
appreciate all help

You have exactly the same spec as me. Same exhaust, same mods. I have the secondary Motohooligan flies fitted but am tempted to take them off next time I plan to do a new map. But I would need more reason than to just remap for the removal of the flies on their own so I'll leave them be for the time being.

The advice I got from my tuner, who I trust -HMRacing, is that do the map with the baffles removed and then if you have to put them in for the odd track day then it will maybe run a bit rich. Better than the other way round.

My bike was showing the power and torque below with the spec you have. Be good to see what you get. Remember dynos are not always that that accurate and there are other factors, temperature, humidity, altitude etc.!

Turbocharger and intercooler.

just remember to remove the shafts too, then plug them up... fantastic mod and free.

oh and before you go to your dyno, replace the rear graphite exhaust seal or you will get 'lean' readings when in fact you may be running quite rich (sucks fresh air in through where the gasket would normally be)

Bic- our dyno results are very similar. The bike makes peak bhp quite early then just sits there holding it with no tail off.

My bike hit 125bhp at 8500rpm and sat there straight as a die to the 9950 limiter. That's looking to me like something is stopping the motor making more power. I wonder if it's down to head flow, standard exhaust system, or the bike just running out of cam?

100 shot

No seriously, remove the secondary flies AND shafts (free) and look into getting the RC8 stacks. You already have the full exhaust, let it breath in a little more. If you're interested in more peak power and less mid-range you could swap in some 2006 SD cams as well. I think Klink has one of the highest peak dynos on this site (131?) from his 2006 bike.

I'm with you on this one Strat. I have all the mods that most would do and had a remap with the Motohooligan modified flies in. (when all the hype was about the gains from doing this:lol:), Then suddenly everyone is tearing out the secondaries completely together with the shafts. But you need to be able to stop the FI light flashing and that requires a Tune ECU and a PC and a lead to dial out. If you're like me and run a trusty PC111 with a great map then I haven't been convinced yet that I should do this. On it's own is not enough for me to warrant a new map - and no one has shown that this, in itself, is really worth anything, (other than seat of pants dyno which counts for nothing because we all want to psychologically acknowledge that the mods we do work wonders. ha ha). I have put on the RC8 stacks, did 500 miles last weekend, but can't say I noticed much difference in the real world - only a dyno would show this I think.

We're all scrabbling around in the mid 120sBHP give or take. Nothing more is going to make much more difference. Klinky was toking on a big spliff when he read his 130 I reckon. But I'm waiting to see the first dyno charts from the Bob Farnham porting and polishing brigade. Be very interesting.

Riddle me that....As good as you think it is, it will be better with the secondarys out (and shaft) ........you have just got use to it and have adjusted to how you must use the throttle..........

It is more direct with them removed........ you get what you ask for throttle wise, where as with the secondarys in the ECU decides what the envirometalists would like before it gives you what you asked for...I believe that its 60% of the problem and none of the cure .

I have yet to hear of ANYONE putting them back in.......................still .....waiting.........................has anybody put them back in?

Oh yeah and and here is a fully documented test .......

http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?f=1 ... 0&start=10

Don't get me wrong, I'll take them out eventually when I can arrange to meet with someone like Klinky with his PC and can turn off the error codes. But I don't think I can be bothered to take them out at the moment - which will definitely need a remap to compensate and get the best out of whatever removing them offers. And I'm not ever going to convert to a tune ECU because I don't have a PC, (Mac only here I'm afraid), and I'm just not computer type person anyway. I'd rather get a good map done for the PC111 and live with it for a year or so with the mods I have done already.

out out out out out

The answer is .....yes and No

Dependant on what you have done 'yes' ......can you add up all the 'Extra' hp and get 5hp on top of what ever you have done 'No'.... motors do not work like that

Is it all about hp....no would it be worth doing if it gave no hp increase YES

It gives you a direct input to the throttle and cures 70% of SD throttle problems (riding a SD with secondarys in after seems like the throttle cable has a small amount of elastic built in........ a delay almost)


......we have spent longer talking about it than it would have taken you to do it

High pressure (like 50 PSI) in a old street type rear tyre will increase HP reading with 4-8 HP on most dyno's

Not that it matter (I guess).

I dont no if its been mentioned yet but also do the simple seperate breather mod and fit cooler running iridium plugs -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-2316-DCPR9 ... 2eb6a7f352

Also when using TuneECU find a dyno guy that nos what hes doing with the ignition side of things, good gains are to be made with slight increases with timing.

All cheap to do but adds up to a few extra HP

hmm.. irridium plugs. why not thanks
will do the crankcase breather mod when i have some more time and info about this.

What do you guys think about using the "james´s" map or the "07+ EU SD Akra Smoothened" map now in the meantime before I get it dynoed ?
my specs will be as followed:
SuperDuke 2007 (EU model)
- Full akra titanium, no baffles
- MH Motobox
- 2ndary flies and shafts removed
- SAS removed
- RC8 Stacks/inlets fitted

Or maybe some other map is the better choice ?

Do 06 and 07 have the same engine? It didn't actually change till 08 did it? If thats the case my map would do well in your bike. Exactly the same bike appart from being a year earlier.

Update !..
rebuilt complete. current spec :
- Full akra titanium, no baffles
- MH Motobox
- 2ndary flies and shafts removed
- SAS removed
- RC8 Stacks/inlets fitted
Running the james´s map now..but... checked the mixture with a wideband lambda.
front cylinder is a little bit rich on low rev about 12:1, at higher rev it is going towards 14,5:1.. way to lean right ??
Dont have to much experience with this stuff, but i read somewhere that on cruising the SD should have 14,7:1 mixture (like any other non TC petrol engine ) but what about higher rev and load ? 12,5:1 ?
Anyway.. the rear cylinder is more lean than the front. going down to 17,1:1 at high rev and load.. not good..
The upcoming weekend Im riding the bike to the dyno guy ! 3h ride. while i was checking the AFR, I saw at what rpm the engine had the best mixture.. so now im riding it at 3000 rpm only
wish me luck on saturday..

Its running a bit weak, ideal is 13, you will be fine untill you have it mapped......(between 14 & 12 ).... unless you plan to flat out for 2 hours

alright thanks ! So 13 is ideal throughout the whole rev range ?
I will ride it like a priest
when I ride it now, i can feel there´s quite a lot of hp to gain
Can´t wait to get this done, as we finally have some nice weather in Bergen, Norway

yet another update HELP PLEASE..
still not dynoed...but this saturday the tuner have the time to fix my precious
But he want to dyne it with the PC3 fitted !
this is my situation ;

current spec :
- Full akra titanium, no baffles
- MH Motobox
- 2ndary flies and shafts removed
- SAS removed
- RC8 Stacks/inlets fitted
Running the james´s map, loaded with TuneECU (removed my PC3)
SAI, O2, 2nd Throttle and EPC DISABLED in TuneECU.

And now i need to mount my PC3 again..

So.. what do i do ??
Load the original map to the ecu with SAI, O2, 2nd Throttle and EPC DISABLED,
Mount the PC3 and find a PC3map which is ok too ride for 3hrs to the dyno center ?
And what map would that be ?
Or anyone have a better idea ?
any help appreciated !!

I would leave it as it is and connect the PC3 with a zero map.
Let the dyno guy do his magic and ride home.
At home, read the map from the PC3 and remove it from the bike.
Merge the PC3 map with your current map in TuneECU and download that to the bike.
Presto!

really ! its that simple ? sweet !
so just to empty the PC3 before fitting basically ?
will come back to you later on how to merge the two maps together
Thank you so much !

little hijack?

Why does my dyno chart show massive torque at mid revs (around 82 ft/lb) but rubbish max power (i think was 116)?

I think the dyno guy kept the max revs low, but power peaks before the redline anyway.

I think fi anything my map is a bit rich also at lower revs so shd be about right at high revs?

Ta. I know that torque is the base, but was a bit iffy on why didn't have a good peak then.

Set Ups that give good torque...do not always breath well at high revs ...so low hp

ahhah, so it would be worth have a peek/play with my map?

One thing you need to do before going to the dyno and which could save you heaps of time and $$$.

Remove the O2 sensors out of the exhaust and open up the holes. See my tread viewtopic.php?f=18&t=10549&p=118763&hilit=holesaw#p118763
If you don't the dyno guy wont be able to fit his sensor and has to piss about to do so.
Not sure if you need to do that on a full akra system but sure on a sd standard downpipes.