SD1290 vs SSbikes

Totally a hooliganism thread.

I was wondering till how many kms can you keep up with an ss bike (1000cc of course) or can you stay in front till the end of the power ? Personally can't keep above 180-200 kms and they go ahead. Being said that I am 1.92 tall and of course not an expert in 1/4mile. Just out of curiosity and hooliganism.

Of course I speak about straights because at corners the beast gets wicked

Same here! I normally waste a thou four till 170km/h or so, then they go ahead as the aerodynamics are becoming a really big factor at those speeds.

A lot depend on the rider too. I have good reaction times and open the throttle full. A lot of riders don't while they think they do! (proven with data loggers!)
I clutch-less shift too if it's a drag race. Just very fast close and re-open the throttle a bit on the 1290, works very well.

Oi mate. Could you tell me a bit more about your clutch less shift ? You shift without using clutch ? Doens't harm the gears ?

i need a volunteer to give me his bike to try it

Reversed shift pattern helps clutchless shifting a lot. Just tap with toes and gear is in Of course release throttle inch same time.

Clutchless upshifts - that bit about pre-loading the shift lever: Optional, and not necessary. Just backing off on the throttle quickly, will unload the gear dogs sufficiently to enable the shift.

BTW - no shortage of how-to videos on YouTube. No need to make one ...

No real risk in trying it - it's more about getting the timing right between backing off on the throttle (and I don't mean entirely letting off), and clicking into the next gear. I've been clutchless upshifting bikes seemingly forever on street and track, to where I don't think about it anymore. Standard shift pattern ... I don't seem to realise benefit from reverse-pattern shifting, clutchless or otherwise.

How do you think quickshifters work?

The "sensor" (or switch in some cases), which is typically actuated by the shift lever (rod), most commonly through an electronic control ("black box") that interrupts/retards the ignition timing and/or fuel delivery. This unloads the gear dogs sufficiently to allow the shift. That interrupt BTW, is typically <100 milliseconds in duration and you don't have to think about moving the throttle. You can't execute a clutchless shift that quickly without a quickshifter, but it's indicative of just how little time off-thottle is needed. An aside - and call me easily amused - they are pretty damn nice to have, particularly on a race track, albeit somewhat superfluous.

If this weren't a "safe" method WRT the transmission, OE manufacturers wouldn't offer quickshifters (optionally and otherwise) from the factory ...

It's safe to do - I would go so far to state that my particular example of 990 upshifts better without the clutch than with it.

Yes pretty much as explained above.
Doesn't do any harm at all!
First time you try it don't do 1st to second, neutral is in between. Try 3 to 4 or so.
Don't hold back neither and don't go mental on the gear lever, no need for it.

How to for beginners: Accelerate (the harder the better) chop the throttle close, shift up, open the throttle. Basically the same as you normally do but without the clutch lever! Smooth as butter-job done!

If anyone is game I'll explain the clutchless downshift too if you want! (yes it works) 1290 or slipper clutch only!!!!

Bikes will happily downshift as well with a little well timed blip of the throttle. Same principle as upshifts but in reverse. Although I clutchless upshift all the time on the track with the SDR as my QS is now on the Blade, I never downshift without the clutch unless I'm pootling around doing sighting laps for inters or novice and then just to pass the time. It doesn't feel quite as mechanically friendly as upshifts though.

It becomes so natural that when you use the clutch for upshifts it feels unnatural. The let off of throttle is very slight. You'll be amazed at how quickly you learn and just how many false neutrals are headed your way for a while

Done

I tried it today from 4th gear to 5th. It was easy and it felt smooth

Mine are normally between 2nd and 3rd and hurt my balls. Thankfully the slipper takes the worst of it! I'm reasonably sure the majority are caused by not releasing the gear lever far enough after the previous shift.

lets bring it up and stay on topic.

How is possible to beat the beast when most of (stock configed) ss have around 10 hp less and 20 to 40 nm less torque ?

I'm sure a current gen zx-10r or s1000rr would walk a 1290 with a mildy competent rider.

I might just quickly add that you dont have to close the throttle, all you have to do is momentarily back off and unload the drivetrain for the shift to be smooth and dog engagement effective.

It's difficult to keep the front down on the duke due to the massive torque down low. The ss are more forgiving in that regard, making it easier to pin it.

I know CycleWorld did a comparison and it came in last (behind S1000r and Tuono) as far as 1/4 mile is concerned. Really makes me interested to see how the Tuono 1100 does.



So if the 1290 can't even spank other nakeds why compare it to street legal race bikes?

Again my comment is geared some towards spec sheet racing rather than real world riding, since in the real world it comes down to the pilot not the machine.