SD R exhausts and throttle response

Hi guys.
I have a 2010 Superduke R.

Love the bike. Hate the bike.

Everybody knows the good.
Now the bad: the throttle response is atrocious at anything below 4k rpm.
From what I've read here, it's a "feature" of the bike, but strangely some seem worse than others.
Mine is bad.
Riding in town is an utter nightmare.
Riding behind a car, at say 20-25 mph, it has happened that the bike starts to sputter, like if I was constantly closing and opening the throttle rapidly. I have to pull the clutch. Very annoying. And embarrassing, to say the least.
I live on a small island, so avoiding residential areas is impossible.

But even riding through mountain roads, I have to keep the revs north of 4K, otherwise the throttle response is very abrupt, upsetting the bike.
Above 4K everything works perfectly and the bike is a dream.
But it makes spirited riding a real challenge, specially on tight roads, which is a real shame because the bike handles like a demon!
On really slow corners I don't even try to ride fast and lean the bike a lot, because if even in 2nd gear I can't get the revs higher than 4k, it's just not worth it and, quite honestly, somewhat dangerous.

As a first step, I am considering a pair of slip-ons an a K&N filter to see if things improve, as well as adding a nice sound, of course.
The noise of a superduke with standard exhaust is just wrong...

I am considering the FMF or the Mivv suono full carbon, as aesthetically, they are, to my eyes, the most pleasing.
I can get the FMF in my country (Portugal) for 1k€ or the Mivv from Italy for 910€.
I am more inclined towards the Mivv, since I think they look better, though I can't buy them locally, which I would prefer.

Also, there are no tuners on my island, so fine-tuning the fuel injection can be very tricky.
I was also considering a powercommander, but I can't tune it on a dyno because there aren't any here.
Money is tight right now, so I don't know if by just using a standard map thing will improve a lot or not. Given the money (here a PC is expensive), I don't know it it's worth it or not.

How about the catalytic converter? Where is it?
By just installing the mentioned slip-ons will I get rid of it?
I ask because I previsouly owned a MV Agusta F4 312R and just by removing the cat the throttle improved slightly (and the bike ran MUCH cooler).

BTW, I have been searching but it's hard to find pics of the R version with the Mivv Suono full carbon.
Where can I find pics of it?
Thanks in advance.

This should have all you need for next to nothing

You should get away with spending nothing on fuel modules for a while mate

I think you might have something wrong with your bike and I would sort it out before making modifications. Bad gas? Pinched gas breather hose? Bad ground? Low charge on battery? How many miles have you put on the bike? How many miles on the bike? A bud had a mouse nest in his air box over the winter months. The cat is designed to heat up and burn the unspent fuel / exhaust so we all can breath better, not just the bike. The cat is located in the stock one piece exhaust on the standard SD.

It doesn't sound like anything is wrong with the bike to me. Or at least not anything that a lot of SDRs suffer from.

I would.
Buy some aftermarket cans.
Buy either a DNA filter that slots in to current airbox or if you have a bit more of a budget a Motobox, DNA or CPR Fabrications Rottweiler Airbox.
Take out the 2nd flies, plug the holes and turn off using TuneECU.
Upload a map using TuneECU that is suitable for your bike.

Go out and find all your problems have been solved riding slowly round town Rag the arse off her with the extra grunt that was added with mods

You will find a lot of useful threads here
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=16897

I would not think the SDR is off that much...... I have a stock 08 SD, so I will back the truck up. You still might be jadded from your last rides MV Agusta F4, what.....200 hp @ 12,200rpm, 92.2 lb.ft torque @ 9,000rpm IL4 motor? That one? Gooood Lucccckkk.

Mine did the same thing. Horrible to ride slow!
Order the KTM throttle (billet with changable cams) and use the .50 one.
Make sure the slack is completely out at the throttle bodies.
Put filter of choice on(pods are cheap and perform well)
Take out 2nd flies.
Turn off O2's
I would run the Joker map as it seems spot on
Exhaust just beacause the stocker weighs almost 30lbs and it sounds cool
Make sure the chain is also adjusted properly as that can add to the jerkyness.

I dont know how many miles are on yours but when I did my valve adjustment it cleared up alot of jerkyness also.

Can I add, I am low rent on the technical and have a regular SD (airbox, cans n secondary fly mods) but the most significant change for the jerky throttle was keeping the throttle cable perfectly adjusted to have literally zero slack- like 1/2 mm or less.

For me it wasn't about the aggressive throttle action- don't need a throttle cam change, love the charge when pulled full open, but that tiny bit from off throttle to the first pull was all wrong on my bike to start. I only did this after almost a year of riding with all the other mods done, night and day, I think there was about 2mm of twist before adjusting.

This was the same on my il4 600 but much less violent, I guess because of the twin.

What gezza said. I still would look for the simple things that make this bike a PITA to ride. I have way more faith in KTM to supply a bike, as expensive as it is, not to be ridable. I can see a throtle cable not set up correct from the dealer. But all the other modifications? With that said, I do believe the mods might make it better, but I don't have that experience. My SD is still stock. All I am trying to say is make dang sure you are starting with the bike set up as it is intended from the factory as the KTM designers intended before you start chasing your tail. Rat holes can run deep. If you have to take your bike back in for service, after you made all the mods, what do you think will happen then? My guess is they will through thier hands up in the air.

the cause of this jerky behavior of the sd and sdr is the fuel injection control loop, that uses the O2 value of the sensors
all thanks to environmental laws.

the problem is the O2 sensors don't work properly under 4000 rpm !

the only way to solve this is to disable the O2 sensors in the control loop by switching them off in the mapping (tune ecu or tune boy)
installing fake sensors with a steady signal is also possible, but remapping is necessary, especially with another exhaust

to make the bike run better it will need a dynojet run to adjust the fueling
standard map and akrapoviv map are not very good

after switching off the O2 sensors loop and remapping you can also change the idle speed, max speed and ignition timing
this will add a few extra HP and make the bike run perfectly!

throttle and cable mods are useless

I disagree.

Closed loop FI is common for motors at low throttle and well discussed here and many other bike forums. I had already performed all those related mods before I adjusted my throttle cable.

How about loosening off your throttle cable so you need 2-3 mm of turn before anything happens and see if there is any difference?

I owned an 08 SDR which had all the problems discussed in this link.I spent months and thousands of pounds trying to sort it.
I fitted Akro Evos,Power Commander III with custom map set up on the dyno,SAS removal,O2 sensor removal,Motobox and KTM throttle cam.Nothing really helped much.It remained a bike that would not repond evenly to the throttle at low revs either crawling in traffic or slowing onto roundabouts and re-applying the throttle.
I just think it's the nature of this beast.A fabulous bike out on the open rode but park it up on the outskirks of town and call a cab.

I did all the mods except the motobox (about to do the Rotweiler!!) but I found the throttle cam and the dyne set up to do the most. Smoothed it to the point of at least being acceptable. It'll never be an inline four that's for certain but I do believe you can arrest a certain percentage of the jerkiness.

guys,

no remapping or anything will really work well unless you

turn off the O2 sensors !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

(or keep the throttle max open )

Sorry for taking so long to get back to this thread, but I've been quite busy lately.

Many thanks for all the help, guys.

Much appreciated.

Tomorrow I will take the bike to the dealer.

Ok. First off the SDR up to 2010 has known issues with sensor getting out of calibration. This problem can be fixed by having your dealer recalibrate them. I've done it and it works to some degree. And another added plus to taking in to the dealer is they will update software and maps if and when there availible. The cost for me to do this was about $120 US dollars. And the dealer said it should be done at least once a year. I don't neasarly agree with having to do this. But it did make the bike smoother at lower rpm. What it did not cure is the sensitive throttle. Why? Read the next paragraph below.

When Ktm designed the SD they wanted a motor that would have the torque of a V-twin but rev quickley like a inline four. To do this I believe they used a lighter flywheel for less mass. Sort of like a MX bike vs a Endural bike the later with a heaver flywheel(Smoother). This worked ok for the standard SD. But when they came out with SDR they lighteened the crank as well. This made the throttle even more sensitive. The RC8 had the same issues up to 2010. In 2011 they fixed it with a heaver flywheel and better electronics. Some say it took a little bit of the Horse power away. I test road the 2012 RC8 down my local twisty road, Mines Rd. in Livermore Ca. All I can say is What a differants it made. With the heaver flywheel it is smooth as a inline four now. Now granted this is not the same motor as the 990, it's a 1190. But the 1190 had the same issues up to 2010 and in 2011 they fixed it.

The SDR is a rare bike to have. After test riding the RC8 I was contemplating about trading in my 08 SDR. But I just can't find it in my self to let the SDR go. It's got way to much character