To Jack or Not to Jack???

Can anyone help? On a recent trackday round Rockingham, I ground out both toesliders and scuffed the side stand...Clearence seems to be a problem! Rearsets are expensive and I'm wondering if jacking the back end up a bit would help?

Would this help? would it have an adverse effect on handling? and how do I go about it?

Any comments would be appreciated.....

i was wondering the same a while ago but the SD dosent have a linkege between the shock and swingarm so the only way i can see to do it is longer shock which would prob be the same price or more expensive than the rear sets?????

How is your rear preload set?

If your rider sag is near the lower end of permisable range you could add some preload to give a bit more ride height at the rear.

I assume you are riding with your toes on the pegs?

there is a cheaper alternative to rear sets - rear set adjusters.
http://cyclecontrol.com/index.php?page=products/rsa

do a quick search for more info, quite a few members here use them...

There is a rear shock ride height adjuster available from the same place as the Nichols triple clamp. Don't know how much it is - it's usually used by racers to heighten the rear to match the increase in height of adjusting the forks down at the front. Do the rear only at your peril because you will make the steering angle even steeper than usual and bike may have added ground clearance but will maybe have an increased twitchy front end. Get a steering damper!! More likely your rear sag is not set right. There are loads of us fat bastards riding well set up SD's and not have too much of a problem with ground clearance. I'm 15 stone - never touched anything down yet on tracks. Maybe try hanging off a bit more?

Do you have the original SD? it has lighter springs front and rear compared to the 07> I changed to 07 springs as engine casings were taking a paggering and im 15 stone with gear.

Did not touch down casings/toe sliders once I had changed.

Yes....but by all accounts Dan is a VERY FAST track rider.

Either get the resident suspension guru to have a look over it at Mallory (its definatly worth £45) or let us no where your based and im sure someone here can sort you out, if you fancy getting your hands dirty here is a base setting that should work quite well with your 15st on track (when you go back on road just give it 4 clicks anti clockwise on the front and rear compression adjusters to soften it off a little)

Front fork -

Preload 6 full turns (this is 6 full turns CLOCKWISE from the stop) this will give you around 27-30mm free sag.
compression 11clicks (all comps, high speed comp and rebounds are clicks/turns anti clockwise from fully wound in)
rebound 11clicks

Rear shock -

Wind the preload collar down so its showing 20-22mm of thread above the collar, this will give approx 7-10mm of free sag.
High speed comp 1.5turns
comp 11clicks
reb 8clicks

Grab your manual or just ask more questions if you get stuck

Your always going to drag the standard pegs so jack up plates will be helpful, unfortunatly im not sure if the guy who was making them is still doing the business, try a wanted add in the `wanted ` section

Just so happens I have a sidestand removal kit too, PM me if interested.

first things first, before you go adding preload or changing anything else trying to get an improvement reset the suspension to the standard settings found in your owners manual.
once you have done that and made sure tyre pressures are correct, ride it, the track day would be good because from there you may be able to get some input from a suspension fella to help you fine tune what you have. you have a controlled environment for direct comparison to see if you're making forward progress, makes the sessions much more fun when you can feel the changes you have made improve your riding. you may not get it set spot on in one ride day but you should get it to at least stop grinding itself away and if you get some set up advice you will learn a lot about what changes do what.

paul.

If its ground clearance you are after, not much point putting on rear sets.....as the right hand engine case touches down next (after you have worn about 5mm off the peg)

Drop fork legs down untill flush with yoke (about 5mm) reset static sag front 25mm and rear 6mm this helps

The biggest help is getting your ass off the seat in corners ...I have made a concerted effort since starting to wear non movable bits of engine case ........and looking at my track day pictures and seeing ......Track v Engine Cases.... and worse still Kerb v Engine cases


See below for how to set static sag

Proceed as follows (it will be much easier if done by two persons):

A Place the motorcycle on a stand (Wheels must be off the ground with no weight on - centre stand or ABBA (not a paddock stand) or pull on to side stand motocross style with the wheel to be measured off the ground

B Measure the distance, from a fixed point immediately above the rear wheel axle (underside of exhaust mark with a piece of tape), to the wheel axle nut.

C Make a similar measurement on the front axle, e.g. from the bottom of the upper fork crown to the front wheel axle. The fork must also be fully extended.

D Allow the motorcycle (without rider) to apply load on the springs (Off stand, held up right) and repeat the measuring procedure.

E Take second measurement from the first - the figure remaining is your static sag

Adjust with preload front and rear (rear is best adjusted with wheels off the floor (as above)...makes turning the collar a lot easier ...un do locking bolt first)
From memory the back is about 2.5 full turns from standard...6mm is the absolute minimum static stag at the back