whats next?

well after pipes, intake (motobox etc), DVS (oviously after proof), tuneECU and dyno tuning, what are the next performance mods that can be done before you start changing cams, increasing compression etc (obviously blue printing and gas flow of heads but i consider that pulling the engine apart) can be done next?

After talking with INDY84 one of the things that could be done is change over to an electric water pump... in cars this can re-gain up to 25hp obviously on a bike it will be a lot less but 5hp is not out of the question... all done without further strain on the engine (essentially reducing work for motor). Similar concept to going for a 520 chain-sprocket set (which is also happening soon as i have there is a company that puts a lifetime warranty on their sprockets).

my only concern with an electric water pump is that it could fail and you wouldnt know until it was too late AND the extra current drawn may be too much for the alternator to deal with and would use up valuable hp anyway while trying... so you would end up losing power to the battery (not getting a chance to charge, especially sitting in traffic)

Has any body else got any ideas? To me its (electric water pump) more a theoretical thing but heck if i get bored it may get done in the future.

How about carbon fiber wheels..?

The pump i would be using is one off the most reliable brands on the market, also heat actuated switches and the sense to turn the bike off if its getting to hot would be key factors. Ill be running the pump on its own seperate circut with a thermo switch and an on off switch for the main power.

from memory the water pumps come with their own controllers that allow you to choose for how long and often they are run... however this is going to be a mod that will be done when there are no more commuting duties for the SD

Sorry to bust your bubble lads but electric water pumps only save HP when you run a total loss battery system.
The power to run the pump must come from somewhere and as soon as it runs it uses electricity which needs to be generated by the alternator to top up the battery so you use the same amount of power as you try to save.
On a high performance engine the pump needs to be always ON so no gain to have.

I like fiddling with the bike but sometimes it is just fine to ride it for a while as it is James.

Ill do the mod and ill post the results, mine is not a comutor bike nor is it ever going to be used for long trips.

I have had an electric water pump on my v rod and the bike gained rpm quicker as it was not having to drive the pump.

It was run as an independent circut, and i have more than enough electric circutry knowledge to do the job properly

Look for future posts in the how todo it forum.

I guess it depends on how much power the electric pump draws !?
Say it draws 4amps (guess) - this is the same as running with your headlamp on all the time.
I think the good thing about an electric pump would be that if it had a good controller it would be better able to maintain a set temperature than a thermostat and a normal pump.
Quite often on a long ride (especially in winter) I can see the engine temperature drop quite low - with an electric pump it could ramp down or even switch off in these situations.
Where would you put the pump though ? where the thermostat is now ?

If its the same amps as a headlight my 06 has the off switch for the headlight on the right hand switch block.

i will let you know when im flying up to have a look at the bike (probably same time i go up for another site visit to my job site), should come up and have a look too