2nd flies removal

I thought it might be VERY informative to share a post I ran across last night as I searched for decent instructions on the secondary fly removal.

It's on the SMT site - laid out much like this one.

here's the link to the description - lots of pictures and well written :



Also, the same author, has a list of modifications that he's done on his SMT and the benefits, both in ride-ability and power increases. Correct me if I am wrong but and SMT(R) has the same engine as the SD, no?

the op on the link ( kevxtx ) is a member on here. So I'm sure if you have any queries about it, he will reply to a pm

Its a SMR and nearly the same motor as SD (Slightly softer cams) Kev does post on here from time to time

Well thanks Kev - if you are reading this - I may have missed his posts.

I have no questions, just appreciate the concise nature of the posts made on the SMT site and thought they could be as beneficial to others as they are to me.

Awesome! This will come in very handy this winter when I'm going to remove my flies and shafts!
Thanks SDsteph and Kevxtx!

He's also doing a DNA airbox comparo soon. that should stir up another long running debate.

Jambox - I didn't take it as a dig - I have thicker skin than that.

Fly complete removal how to s have been done twice this year already on here

MrZ32 - I searched this site and must have missed them.

Having removed the flies ive had a look at removing the shafts too, but keeping it simple.

Is there any reason we couldn't just remove the shaft and block up holes in the front throttle body. And then cut the shaft close in to the motor on the rear and plug one hole and leave the motor and the tiny bit shaft on it. Then the motor would still operate as normal and not bring up a fault code and will just turn the small remaining stump of shaft.

Certainly for me, the bike will never be put back to full standard road spec and will be sold on as a track bike if t comes to it so butchering it isn't a problem.

Or you could just remove them, plug them up and turn off with tune ecu.

Yep, i could, but thats not what i asked.

I never tried it but it should work....as it still thinks its working..so no fault light

Took the shafts out. Reattached the motor and built it up.

Fi light is flashing as expected.

Think the motor works on amperage load so it has to hit the end of the stop, load up and then cut, just like and electric window system. Problem is with the shaft removed the motor cant find its stop point so just works for a few seconds then stops.

Bike is LOOOOOOADS better. Throttle is really snappy when i rev it now. Feels like it has a good bit more bottom-mid range grunt and throttle response is miles better.

I solved the flashing FI lamp using a highly technical state of the art procedure................

Will put lamp out and switch it off once i get round to looking into the tune ecu thing.

...f"*k....I wish I thought of that ...much better huh

It's just been too much fun to stay out of the throttle.

But I could blame it on the colder temps and the winter swill they call gasoline around here. My mileage usually falls off this time of year.