530 chain conversion kit?

Hi guy's!! just need some advice. Does anyone know whats the advantage of going to a 530 size chain and sprockets? and if there is any! is there anything i need to know? i have put many chain and sprockets on bikes but do you need to run a special spacer on the front sprocket or straight on as normal? etc etc

None that I can think of, a good 525 chain is just as strong as a 530, the 525 is a little lighter and absorbs less power than a 530,

you will also have less clearance between the chain and tyre and possibly other parts along the chain run and around the front sprocket with a 530,

So no I cant see any reason to convert to a 530

A few people have gone the other way and put 520 chains on instead.

I figured this was a mistype. 530!!!
Jesus! I dropped over 2 kilos going from the stock 525 set up to 520 with aluminium rear sprocket. That is over 2 kilos of rotating , unsprung mass! Why would anyone up-size the chain?
The way I understand it is that mfg. use the larger 525 just to decrease the likelihood of a chain break on a street bike.
GoGo and I ran 520 on our race bikes. I did over one whole race season on the same chain and sprockets. I seriously doubt anyone hammers their chains harder than we did.
Maybe the same but not likely harder.

IMO, everyone should do the 520 conversion just as quickly as the switch out that miserable, heavy ass, exhaust under the seat. Weight is bad, but weight in bad locations is terrible.

Until it snaps [/quote]

Won't happen, unless the 520 was installed improperly, neglected, or worn out. A well-maintained top line 520 chain and sprockets can live as long (or even longer) than most OEM 525 hardware, even on a 100+ HP bike. People run 520 setups on 180+ HP bikes on race bikes. And yes, with that kind of HP, you get more chain elongation, and lightweight sprockets wear more quickly - but chain breaks are not common.

There is no upside to a 530 setup on a SuperDuke - just added weight.[/quote]

I have a 520 set up to, but I know to look after it and I bought the best chain I could find regardless of cost,

Not everyone reading this is going to do the same thing or take care of the chain to the same standard as a race bike,

In the UK we have the wet weather, the salt/grit cocktail they put on the roads in the winter, that stuff eats metal and is still on the roads in the spring time,
Yes 520 chains do snap on big twins if not very well cared for and at quite low mileages to, I know a few Suzuki TLs /TLR riders who have had 520 chains snap and these guys are not idiots and with less than 130bhp to, I have also seen a well maintained DID 520 race chain snap on a mates Yamaha R1 drag racing, 148bhp...........

We should be aware when posting that not everyone who reads and perhaps follows suggested modifications has as much experience or mechanical knowledge / sympathy as we do, especially if as in this case a badly fitted or poorly maintained 520 chain could destroy someones motor, or far worse cause a potentially life threatening accident

Talk about tunnel vision!

You know, I never thought about how I went over my bike thoroughly each weekend. Before and after!!
I guess I forgot about folks who ride on the street and hardly give maintenance a thought.

My days on the road always started out with a good "walk around", just like I did on my VWs and airplanes.
I am not into wrenching but I am a hell of a lot less interested in mechanical failure.

I am happy you guys pointed my narrow mindedness out. I dig it when I get caught with my foot in my mouth. Doesn't happen very often so it is always a nice cold slap in the face.

As far as hammering the chain, I would not disagree that the smoothness required in racing is less wearing on the chain but I doubt that anyone on the street engine brakes or closes the throttle as abruptly. Just sit at the end of a back straight that ends with a sharp turn and listen to the chain chatter and scream in pain. The starts are particularly rough too.


If a guy rides that hard on the street, doesn't do due diligence in inspecting and maintaining the bike, I wouldn't want to ride with him.

I am sure that is none of us here on the forum.

No problem, its easy to become focused on your own little world and to forget we are all quite different in experience, knowledge and abilities,

too much focus on track riding IMO, some seem to think its the ultimate and what works on a track is the dogs danglies, wrong

fast road riding, Road racing as in the IOM TT / NW200 etc,Endurance racing, drag racing, hill climbing demand a different thinking regarding bike set up and components,

The ultimate test of man and machine has to be the IOM TT, no question

Getting back to chains, if you look into it not all chains are created equal, its a sweeping statement to say a 520 chain is x pounds lighter than a 525

and not true, the same as saying a 520 is as strong as a 525, again wrong

take a look at just one chain manufacturers product/ spec list you will see what I am getting at, you can actually stick with a 525 chain, keep the strength, and save weight

http://www.didchain.com/chainSpecs.html

I posted before about sidewinder sprockets/Krause engineering. Wonder if anyone ever bought one. Big warranties on them, I think.
Looking for link now.....

http://sidewindersprockets.com/

Looks like Vortex are supplying 520 front sprockets now...finally!

I still swear by PMP sprockets for the rear. They wear much better than any other 520 aluminium sprocket I've used. They now have specs for the ZX6 sprockets for the Carrozzeria wheels for an SD application. Ask them for the Lowrance spec. $56 USD for a 38T 520 anodised black.

They make them to fit standard SD wheels as well.

John