Akrapovic Evo repack required

I think I need to do a repack on my Evo cans. Having problems with failing noise tests. I triggered the drive by at Snetteton yesterday with baffles in Trigger is set at 92db and I was 96db. They didn't want to let me back out unless I did something to the cans but I managed to talk the guy around and by riding on the far left past the pit lane I avoided triggering it again. Not ideal though and only worked as I knew where the detector was. I'm also going to look at modifying my baffles as they are basically just a smaller bore with no cap.

Any ideas where I can buy the packing and more importantly the rivets? I'll PM Bic as he must have some info from when he made his carbon sleeves that time.

I've just re packed my Leo's for the 2nd time.

Acoustimat packing seems best. I got told to fit it loose as it expands with heat but I think I put it on too loose. Did it again a bit tighter today and seems a better job. 1m by 800 is enough to do 2x Leo cans.

Dunno about the Akras but I used 8 x 4.75 rivets.

Thanks dude, thats a start.

Here ya go dude, best stuff you can get -

http://www.thermalvelocity.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID=425

And as you say, speak to Bic about rivets and rivet tool, easy job to do, just take your time

http://www.ktm-parts.com/18600047.html - should be available in the KTM - suggest you give Redline a call.

TIP: Before you drill the rivets out, use a thin straight punch to puch out the centers.

This will stop your drill bit skating of the center and making the hole in the sleeve / bands slightly bigger.

Akra repack advice from memory.

1. Don't bother even thinking about akropovic packing - it's extortionate. There are loads of places to get good quality stuff at better prices.
2. Like they say, be careful drilling out the rivets because enlarged holes cause problems later, especially if you do it multiple times over years.
3. It pays to label with a bit of masking tape and numbers which ring came of which end and which side so you put them on exactly the same.
4. Be sure not to bend the outer titanium ring when disassembling as the crease will never disappear.
5. I always use some fuse wire to bind on the new packing tight so that it slides into the sleeve easily when re-assembling.
6. This is a good time to shorten the silencers if you want to. (For aesthetic reasons, I took off 50mm from my round cans - not done this on Evos yet but I would do)
7. I just used standard aluminium pop-rivets to reassemble. Get good ones and a good quality gun so that the pin always falls out the middle when they're on.
8. The rivet Ash mentions is the Riv-nut version of the fixing that Akra have on the round silencer version. It's used to screw on the heat shields and there are several on each silencer. I have a big bag of riv-nuts and bought the tool for fixing them on but to be honest it wasn't necessary and I wouldn't do it again , I just wanted the silencers to be authentic looking but because I'd shortened them the holes would have been in the wrong place. Anyway - who uses heat shields anyway?
9. The hardest part of reassembly is working the pop rivets round each ring whilst making sure that the ring lies flat against the sleeve as you go. This isn't too bad if you're using the original holes and the right band for the position, ('cos you marked them!!). But it can be a real pain when you are rebuilding modified sleeves or replacing them with carbon ones. It's also hard if your holes are too big for the pop rivet because they've worn or you made them too big. My advice is that on each rivet if you're not happy with the way you did it or there is a gap between the band and the sleeve then drill it out and try again as the problem will only get worse as you go round the silencer - to the point where sometimes the rivet will not even go in the last hole. Do not be tempted to solve this by drilling a new hole through the band into the sleeve as you'll end up with big oval holes and next time you repack you'll hate yourself.
10. If you're a perfectionist and drill out too many badly applied rivets then there will be a lot of pins and swarf inside your new silencer and although you tell yourself that the packing will accommodate this you'll be fooling yourself because they will rattle when you shake them and so you will have to drill all of them out and start again. Advise stopping at this pint, having a beer or a spliff and doing this another day.

It is worth it.

Thanks guys. I'll order up the bits and do it after Rockingham this weekend.

FMF makes packing for their exhaust systems, (dirt bike based exhaust ststems). Buy it by the bag. Masking tape can also used to hold the packing in place before you shove the bundle into the cans. If you had more of a turn down exhaust tip, the sound would be more directed to the ground, rather than horizontal placement, procasting like a megaphone.

No not yet. Will end up being a winter project now as I'll be doing one more UK date at the very most.

I just installed a set of Akapos a few weeks ago and was shocked to read in the instruction that the cans need repacking every 40 hours. I read this as race hours at WFO, so it should last me quite a while

40 hrs??? ive had mine on there for like 3 years now!

Who in there right mind would be taking their cans apart every 40 hours??

Do both ends have to be removed in order to replace packing?

Yes. Both ends really because you'd really struggle to get the packing in from only one end. Every time I've ever done packing I've ended up using fuse wire to bind the packing tight so the sleeves pass over it easily.

Ok after waiting for ages for Klink to get off his arse and repack his Akra's and it loking like never happening I decided to have a crack myself.
Here is a few picks and a little bit of a guide for the repack.
WHile I was at thought I may as well replace the graphite seal and give the headers a bit of a clean up.


Not looking too bad, last good clean about 2 years ago. Joy of no salt on the roads, headers came of clean.


Graphite seal in surprisingly excellent shape after 15000km.


Graphite seal again. Damage caused by removal.


Would make nice wall art.


Rivets carefully drilled and punched out and end cap removed.


Looking down the barrel.

t
Packing was a little difficult to remove at first. Just kept pulling it out until the centre piece came out. On the second can I got a piece of 4X2 wood and gently bashed it out with that.


Second cans packing.


Internals with gauze wrapping. I cleaned the gauze out and reused it.


I used a product called Acousta Fil from a company called Thermal Velocity, this looks to be the same type of fill as used by Akra.
Each can required 1m x 400mm total cost was about A$85 so not exacty the cheapest wrap on the market.


Can repacked, ensure that the gauze is bottomed out or it will cause issues with refitting the end cap.
Sitting on the the Acousta Fil for the second can.


I used stainless rivets. Had to pack a washer behind where the rivnuts were that held the heat shield on as the holes were too large.
You will need a decent rivet gun if using stainless (or forearms like Popeye)


Place all the rivets in prior to rivetting, this will ensure that all is lined up.


Refit, admire and ride.


Ooooh shiney

Summing up. The bike has now done 40000km and I figured that a overhaul was more than likely due but in the end the original wrap was still intact and I noticed no appreciable difference in noise levels.
So a waste of my time and money..................... But good fun.

Made all the easier by a sweet arse shed!
Good write up mate.
Taillight is on the way, I'll stir you up as soon as she's back together.

Thread should be sticky-ed ... (in how-tos)

Ok I've ordered some sealed blind stainless rivets off amazon. 4.8mm x 9mm. Have 3m of Accusta-fill ready. 4.8mm drill bits. Will also do a walk through.

We might need to look at a modified baffle for the Evos. With some of the drive by db levels now we could do with an option that can be used in desperate times. I have a spare one and will post it off to Seaton Tuning and see what they can offer us.