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balancing the Throttle bodies to eliminate hunting.

73 posts · Started by topendz · 20 Jun 2008

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Post 1 by topendz,

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Post 2 by Chris,

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Post 3 by lockers,

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I use the vaccum hoses that connect to the IAP (intake air pressure) sensors. Theres one on the frame beside the left side of the airbox and one just behind the radiator filler cap on the right. It's just small sensor with one thin hose and elec plug connecting to it, mounted in a rubber holder. Just pull the hose off, stick a joiner in the end of the existing hose and then connect the carbtune hose to that. You must disconnect the Elec plug too, or it will stall when running. You will have an FI light to come on too, due the the disconnected IAP sensors but don't worry about that.

The adjustment/balance screw is inside the airbox, on the left side of the rear throttle body. You need to raise the tank/remove the air filter to get to it. Then just tweak it until she's running sweet and re-assemble.

I do mine every minor service.

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Post 4 by the-bunker,

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Post 5 by OldYelr,

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Post 6 by kendo57,

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synchronizing is done at idle.
its nice to raise the rpms to see if balancing remains at highter rpms but the adjustment is made at idle. after you think you have the tb's balanced at idle, raise the rpms and let drop back to idle and check the columns again and readjust if necessary.

Post 7 by OldYelr,

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USE CAUTION!!! If your synchronizer uses MERCURY (as the one above), this can be sucked into and through your engine! This will turn your SD/garage/livingroom/whereever into a mercury contaminated dead zone. In addition you will probably inhale enough mercury before you can leave the area to cause CNS damage and make your nads shrivel...

Post 8 by lockers,

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Post 9 by topendz,

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Post 10 by Allan P.,

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I have a set of Motion-Pro carb sync stix that use mercury. Nope I don't work for a tabloid. You figure Mercury is safe stuff kendo57? Here's some light reading

Post 11 by cjc,

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Post 12 by topendz,

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Post 13 by the-bunker,

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Post 14 by topendz,

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Not wanting to buy a CarbTune or equivalent, why wouldn't the old school way to balancing twins work? Simple tubing shaped into a U with water in it, a classic U tube manometer. Connect the two ends as above and then just balance the levels. The absolute level is irrelevant, just the balance, so no need for marks, etc. Ad no mercury worries either!

Post 15 by SDSmurf,

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Post 16 by the-bunker,

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Post 17 by topendz,

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Post 18 by SDSmurf,

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Post 19 by the-bunker,

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Post 20 by topendz,

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Post 21 by sdrk,

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Post 22 by SDSmurf,

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Post 23 by sdrk,

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Post 24 by topendz,

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Post 25 by the-bunker,

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Post 26 by Twisted Jester,

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Post 27 by ShadeTheChangingMan,

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Post 28 by Nickeluring,

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Post 29 by lockers,

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Post 30 by Nickeluring,

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Post 31 by sdrk,

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Post 32 by BASH69,

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Orpheus,
thanks for the excellent explanation, I think I get it.
My dealer claims to have checked my valves on the first service and they didnt require adjustment. I also asked if the tb's were balanced and was told yes. Then, I read here that most of your dealers won't synch the tb's. When I checked my tb's they were off by more than 3 cmHg and it ran crappy. After I balanced the tb's it ran great. Makes me wonder if dealer even checked the valves.

Post 33 by MonkeyDuke,

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Post 34 by superdukegod,

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Post 35 by Don Mega,

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Post 36 by Motohooligan,

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KTM should weigh in on this, they would surly have a thorough explanation as to why or why not....

with all this rave over snatch and these frequent valve adjustment intervals, joe would think thare would be a clear cut answer.

The 3 dealers I have spoken to in great depth of the snatch issue had little or no comment to add to what ktm says in thare service manual.

Post 37 by mrbubblehead,

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Post 38 by TheJoker,

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Post 39 by the-bunker,

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Post 40 by TheJoker,

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Post 41 by TheJoker,

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Post 42 by Sabre,

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I did mine on Friday evening, managed a few laps around town to check it out. It's a definitive improvement. Definitive!! However, it's not perfect. This is an SDR, btw. The bike has gone from totally utterly abysmal, to annoying. I do think I need to redo it in a week or so, after a ride. I've put up quite a few pictures here . If someone's up for it, feel free to link them into this thread. I think there's a few extra tips there. For example, the tank-prop-up-stick.

Hope it is of use to someone.

Also, if you're in the area and want this done, get in touch and we can see what we can work out.

Post 43 by Colonel_Klinck,

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Post 44 by the-bunker,

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Post 45 by TheJoker,

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Post 46 by Joely Boy,

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Post 47 by Zenbiker,

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fyi - using this method to test the TB's does not require lifting the tank or removing the air filter - that is only needed if the TB's are out of balance.

Paul

Post 48 by Colonel_Klinck,

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Post 49 by Plipton,

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I made one of these balancers and did mine the other day
http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp
I have used alot of different manometers/syncronizers in the past but
I was real surprised how sensitive the home made one is. I used 2 stroke oil
in mine (the lighter the oil they more sensitive) and I reckon its at least 5 times more sensitive than any other one I have used and total cost was about $6 as I had the timber and an old tape measure I sacraficed at home.
Also for those with the motobox it's seriously like a 5 minute job as all you have to remove is the RH tank panel to disconnect the map sensor and everything else you can easily get to.

Post 50 by Colonel_Klinck,

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Post 51 by fridayman,

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Post 52 by mrbubblehead,

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Post 53 by Aferal,

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Post 54 by TheJoker,

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Post 55 by AvataR,

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Post 56 by Plipton,

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Post 57 by AvataR,

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we used to play with mercury as kids. We had a bucket of the stuff we used to throw lead fishing weights into to see them float.

Never d d d d d dun me no harm

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Post 58 by OldYelr,

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Post 59 by AvataR,

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Post 60 by smoky,

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Post 61 by eaverna,

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Post 62 by ktmguy,

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Post 63 by TC's SD,

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Post 64 by TC's SD,

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Post 65 by harvester,

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Dunno. I have been wrenching on my bikes for years and synching the Carbs (or TBs in this case) has always been done with the screw. Maybe they said they did something in the ECU?

All I know is, I did it, and the bike is much better now...to the point where I dont really mind being stuck in stop and go traffic

Post 66 by CEREC1,

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Post 67 by Bert,

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checked mine with homemade balancer, wd40 is too light lotsa bubbles,
10/30 works great. My rear cylinder is pulling WAYYY more vacuum than the front... can they be that far off? I didn't let it warm up, but doubt that'l change it by much.

i'll pull the lid and turn screws tomorrow, can't wait for the improvement!

TC

Post 68 by JohnJJr,

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Post 69 by galobos,

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I'm trying to use Tune ECU to balance the TB's. The problem I'm having is that the voltage values seem to bounce around every time they refresh. Also,the MAP value on the dashboard is different than that in the left hand column which is supposed to be the MAP of cylinder #1. The voltage values change as much as =/- 1.v. and one cylinder is not consistently higher than the other? Suggestions?

Mods: Rottweiler intake, 2nd flies removed, PCV + Autotune 300, Akro round cans. Did 15 min reset.

Thanks

Post 70 by lcjohnny,

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I know this is old but the k-line diagnostic info doesn't seem fast enough to do any accurate real time tuning. It's good enough for a rough idea type thing but it definitely isn't the correct tool to sync the throttles.

Post 71 by Colonel_Klinck,

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I think I would agree the figures from the sensors lag. I just use them to check whether it is close. If it is out i use vacuum gauges to re-adjust

Post 72 by JohnJJr,

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Just curious how much vacuum you guys are pulling at idle?

Post 73 by Plipton,

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