1290 Rear wheel removal

The 1290R needs a 60mm socket to remove the rear wheel. These are not easy to come by AND THERE'S NOTHING IN THE TOOL KIT!!!
The photo below shows how the guys at Fast Bikes do it ...

Here's a nice socket with guide...
http://xtcommerce.motorradteile-bursig. ... -2014.html

Wow. Another cost cutting oversight on a £14k bike.

There's a cracking wee toolkit included with the bike.

No point including a spanner for the rear wheel nut though - one long enough to apply 200Nm isn't going to fit...

As clarification it has a tool kit but nothing to undo that nut - not even a pressed steel ring with extendable handle. Even if they did 200Nm would be hard to achieve.

Sorry.

But for £14k I would expect to get a proper spanner capable of adjusting an essential part of the machine. If it needs to be big and not be portable that's ok. Just give me a nice case to keep it in as well.

What % of superduke owners will actually take the wheel off the bike themselves? Most wouldn't so I can't imagine why KTM would include one. Then again what do I know. I won't be taking the wheel off mine any time soon.

Boys have had some fun on that rear tyre.

200nm! Jesus are they meant to supply the scaffold pole that you use to get that much leverage.

The 916 was only 46mm.

I remember some of the guys with 1198s had bought impact driver to remove nuts.

I must be on a different planet. What Superduke owner doesn't sometime need to take the rear wheel out?

Anyway, all they'd need was this in a little complimentary box when you got delivery of the bike.

Remember my 1098 at Almeria Klinck, it's took three people on the end of a breaker bar to loosen the nut. The recommended torque was 230NM. The modern Duc's are 55mm nuts, and don't buy an ally socket, they not up to it.

I already had a socket for the 990, it's the same as my CRF450 race bike .

However, as I travel light for Euro trackdays, I use the one in the kit. It's OK.

The KTM toolkits are pretty good as far as bike kits go.
A lot of the guys in the superM paddock used to joke that the tool kit was the only thing you'd want to keep after 6 months!

Fook it if I could I had 14k of loose change lying around I'd buy one regardless of the fact it's a first model. But as I'm fooking useless at saving money there is little to no chance of me ever having 14k in loose change

Mods, why is this in the general banter thread?

Complaining yes. .. Then I bought a bike that has much less performance for the equivalent of 1k pounds less. .. or 2k aud. But for the heart racing like the 1290 could not.

What was the official hp of the 990sd 118? This is 110 but beautiful to look at and ride. Still keeping the 990 though... I still go to the garage to perv on it at night.. abs ride the piss or of her during the day.

Lots of talk about new generation Superduke 1290r and all the guys that went balls out buying it sight unseen.. I have had plenty of bikes and I reckon that 90% of the people that have bought the 1290r will not be selling it because it's the bomb! I won't be selling my bubba unless something comes out that can rival it's ride-ability and right now I can't imagine that anything comes close for a daily cruiser. I love my 1290r and it's not going anywhere and I feel that most other new owners feel the same way.

Should come with a centrestand too. Can't believe they didn't supply it

For all the people who don't want to be paying dealers an extra £20 just to get the wheels out when you need them replacing and to all the track whores the spanner, socket, whatever should be supplied. Even if it does need a load of torqueing..

KTM's toolkit is going down in quality like its bikes Just another rushed out for the summer market KTM..

Should point out I've had 4 KTM's in the past, the 990 Superdukes were worth the small niggles and I'm sure the 1290 is to the people who can afford it. The RC8 was definitely not worth the niggles! The 990 owners aren't bitter about the 1290 owners, most of us could afford a 1290 on credit but we just choose not to. It's not a jealousy thing, the 990 is an amazing bike and in the right hands as shown on here many times it would wipe the floor with bikes of much larger capacity.

Back on topic ...

I consider myself a bit of a spanner man. Hey Nerd pass the 60mm socket from your real tool kit, you'll find it over there with the half dozen or so 10mm's and 12mm's (which everyone and every decent store has).

Can't remember the last time I even saw a 60mm socket. In fact, I can't even find a part number for the KTM one in the special tools list

Good reason to ditch that flashy one sided swing arm.
Brit cars came with a hammer to tighten the wheels on years ago.

I paid Oz $38.00 for my single hex 60mm 3/4 drive socket.

From our local tool man that drives a tool van around selling tools to workshops, I will ask him where he got it from when he come this Friday.

I was going to get one of these but he beat those prices.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KC-Tools-3-4 ... 51b4e6eb62
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HELI-GUY-1-I ... 3cdee2b466

This one looks the business, got mine ordered.


http://xtcommerce.motorradteile-bursig. ... -2014.html

I bought a 60mm 3/4" drive socket, turned all the excess metal off it which made it a fraction of the size and weight without losing any of the strength. Stuck a 1/2 to 3/4 step for garages without bigger equipment into it wrapped it up and keep it under my seat. No problem.
The reason for this is when touring in the Alps/Pyrenees) and something happens and needs the rear wheel removed (puncture etc) Not many garages except maybe HGV repair shops will be able to help. Carry your own socket increases the chances of a repair at any garage/shop.

After getting that darned nail in my tyre at a few hundred miles I was happy I had a Harbor Freight Tools store 10 miles away....saved the night, this big wrench easily broke loose the darn nut, seems KTM could have used a different type nut where most people might have the damn size in their toolbox. Very annoying a bike this pricey and you have to deal with this type of jackassery. Once the wheel was off 30 minutes later it's back on with a patched tyre, dead center of tread so I wasn't about to blow a couple hundred on a new tyre. I've gotten cheap in my old age.

Question...why do you remove the wheel to fix a puncture? (While traveling)

I just put the hole at the back, clean the hole with that round file thingy in the kit, fit the gooey stuff with the oversized needle tool, cut the protruding bits off and put 4 CO2 cartridges in.
If needed put some more air at the next servo.
3 min job.

If you have time to complain, you should be riding instead

That being said, I noticed the KTM Shop Manual for the bike says 200nm and some people are mentioning other numbers. Is the shop manual wrong?

Also, it says "Lock the locking wire with locking varnish". What the heck is locking varnish, and why does the locking wire need it?? I tried to look up locking varnish and it just kept coming up as a loctite product, which I thought was used for the threads, not a locking wire?

And finally, can we confirm which way to spin this nut to get it off? I kept seeing left hand, right hand, blah blah. Lets make it simple: do you spin it clockwise, or counter-clockwise to take it off? That way, someone in the future like me who has no idea what left hand or right hand thread means, will have a very simple straight forward answer to the question when they use the search function and find these posts (fingers crossed about the search function! lol)

Edit: Also, what do you guys use for grease on the threads? Manual recommends Motorex Bike Grease 2000 which is a lithium based grease, for the threads of the axle and axle nut. I have a Valvoline Full Synthetic grease I used on the axles of my race bike, wondering if I can just use that and be done with it.

The single sided swing arm stand and the kitchen sink as well. Lol Does anybody make a trailer hitch for the 1290r?

The large rear wheel nut is indeed a right hand thread so you turn it anticlockwise to loosen it. At 250Nm it is not that tight and a decent bar should see it easily done.
If my memory serves me right it is only a 25 kilo weight hanging off a 1 metre bar length, so if your breaker bar is say 1 metre long you should only have to apply 25kilos to the end to apply that torque plus any friction of course. If you have a 12 inch long toy for a breaker bar I suggest you go and find a longer one or add a length of pipe to your original one and you should have more success.
I find the rear nut to be easier to work with when someone is there to hold the bike with brakes on.
Sorry I can't be more help.

No that helped tremendously, as did the post above mine. I will just go and get a 25" breaker bar tomorrow and see how it goes. Good to know it's a standard thread now so I know to turn it left.

Thanks,

Comrade: I'm almost reticent to suggest this but here goes just in case - you have taken the locking clip out haven't you or there is not part of it still stuck in one of the holes?

superduke 1290 owners be like...

yes both clips are out, it's just the nut and I, and it's kicking my ass.

Definitely 1 man job if you have prober tools


Just set the right foot on the rear brake and little twist. I'm only 70 kilos and can do it easily.

I went and got a 1/2" drive pneumatic impact driver.. Worked like a charm, though I had the torque setting a little too high and it melted the nut a bit. lol I'll just make sure to have a spare around if it ever rounds off too much.

Probably was too tight, first tyre change and all. I need an impact anyway, this gave me an excuse.

Sorry to revive this thread lads but I'm struggling with the rear axle nut....the 41mm one!
Rear brake operated...front wheel against the wall!!
1/2" breaker bar with a 3/4" adapter for the 41mm socket....not budging atall!!