SAS Valve removal (for off road purposes only!)

The stuff...



In the beginning...



Using the wire end and cutting wires, could not locate those tiny wire ends...



Soldered the resistor to the plug wires.



Sealed up real nice and water tight...



Part installed on the pumpkin...



Tucked away for safe keeping....



Newest Moto Box, (thanks Aaron! ) ...



The bike running, see my defect speck in the RH upper corner NO FI Light... nota. Thare she BLows.... need any help from here do not hesitate.

Steve, here it is without the shrouds.... the same actually... I can take more in a bit if you want with her shrouds on...



the other side, Rain is going to be no prob, I have plans if it becomes necessary to address.



And me new leavers.. heheh... joe loveth the pumpkin... bar end mirrors next. Powder coating and anodizing is in front of me now..

That looks really clean Joe and the levers are dope! I'm really going to have to consider that airbox! As was going to buy that LSL damper but damn, that airbox looks like better money spent. I wonder if the SD will run ok with the stock Akra map and full exhaust...

Thanks for the pics Joe, I envy your Pumpkin! She is getting the attention she deserves, my baby has been neglected but you have motivated me to give her more of my attention!

I've just done this to my bike too.

First I checked that my 1000 ohm resistor would work and it did, so I soldered it onto the cable. Once I had that done, I proceeded to remove the SAS valve and the rest.
Sadly I was unable remove everything. I got the SAS valve off no problem, but I didn't want to spend too much time on this issue right now, so I wasn't able to get to the front "thingymajig" that's on the side of the cylinder. I therefore left the hose in place and plugged the end of the hose with a Homebase "Internal Stop End" from the plumbing section and a hose (Jubilee) clip. The rear cylinder on the other hand I managed to get to. I simply removed the hoses and plugged the "thingymajig" on the cylinder. It looks a bit ugly as I used black electrical tape for the moment.
This is however quite temporary as I'm planning to machine some SAS covering plates on my milling machine. But I have some other projects at the moment (downstairs toilet needs refurbishing)...
I also removed the hose that goes into the airbox. From the airbox itself I removed the "hose-holder-thingy" and replaced it with a piece of plastic I cut to size and gluegunned on.
I've got some pictures of the stuff, but I didn't take nearly enough to describe it all. I can take more pics should someone want more pics. Please ask.

I took it out for a (very short) test-ride and to my astonishment some of the jerkiness is gone! YAY!!!! YAYAYYAYAY!!!! I don't know why, but it's smoother. It really is. There's a considerable difference. It's not perfect, but it's much better.

Big thanks to Joe, the-bunker and cat for all the help, pics and tips!

Does the resistor need to be fitted a certain way round or dosnt it matter....

Is there a problem removing the valve and not installing the resistor beyond having to look at the FI light all the time?

Apart from all of that you'd probably want to know if you actually had a real FI issue that needed sorting but if the light is always on, you'll never know.

What you also can do is to buy two sets of plugs (male/female) and cut the wire, put one connector onto the cable, use one of the other type to attach the resistor, then use the secod one to connect it to the SAS valve. (one connector will be surplus).
Doesn't really matter what connectors they are as long as they are pretty small but sturdy.

Something like this:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?menuno=13280

Just keep in mind that this is another point of failure.

Confused a bit.

Understand the SAS system and what everyone is saying. Question is - could a blank gasket not be placed behind the SAS splates, thus blanking them when the SAS plates are refitted. Obviously this would mean all the related pipework would be in place - would look stock - and shouldn't throw up any FI light.

Yip, that'd work. "Just" plug the airbox and the two hoses. which you will have to do anyway.
The idea though is to eliminate the junk, not just make the bike run better.

Alternatively if anybody really doesn't want to take all the hoses off you can just stick a 16mm ball bearing in the hose where it connects to the sas plate and then reconnect it, nice and simple.

This info is from somebody else so can't confirm personally that 16mm is the correct size but the idea is sound.

Cheers for that KTMGuy.

OK removed SAS.

I cut the pipe to save me having to put the blanking plate on the f/c (had a go but clearly need the hand of a one year old and a bendy ujimaflip.

This is all I have taken off:



Just confirm for me this is one of the ONLY two holes I need to plug with mastick/bathroom sealant:



And this one as I have not put the blanking plate on, fill with plug and jubilee clip:



Cut off the wire ready to attach the resistor.

So thats everything right?

Yep - the airbox has the 1 at the rear and youl hav 2 blok the tube wich youve left on!

The front plate is quite easy, ya jus need an 8mm ring spanner and alot of patients!!!

Dan, I found if you undo your oil tank bolts, it moves just enough to get a socket on the bolts.
I have a handy mini socket set, you can get them form Halfords for jusyt over a tenner, they are small enough squeeze in to undo the front bolt on the plate, and by shifting the poil tank and pipes slightly you can get to the other bolt from the outside with an extention bar.

On that subject, I had a mate CNC me some plates...he did them in Ally Bronze which is gold in colour, I sprayed them up and lasered in the ktm logo.

Quick question, and one that may have already been answered on here but my eyes are too bleary to read all the way through. Is the resister needed to fool the ecu the same as what you use to delete the O2 sensors?

Got my plates on today, 'thanks Aaron', they look better than anticipated.
Found it easiest to remove RH 'y' bracket to allow better access to front cyl. which is PITA anyway.
BTW Napa cap 660-1697 fits the stock airbox perfectly. Moto box very soon to follow!

Please disregard chain lube sling, i've since switched...

Just took mine out today, first time after fitting the MH block off plates....no popping and a little bit smoother....still a bitch at 30/35mph tho.

The Akra map took care of 90% of the backfiring, the plates did away with the last 10%.

Thanks to a pair of Millars plates, I have just done this to my SD.

I can honestly say it was the biggest pain in the ass ever, never have I sworn at a bike more! Fitting the rear plate, soldering in the resistor and removing the valve and pipework was reasonably easy BUT....

That front plate is the worst thing ever! I'm still not sure its on properly as I think I can hear it "ticking" will have to have another look tomorrow night. Finally got it all together thought it was hometime and THEN.....

The bastard tank screw grrrr took an hour to get that thing in. grrrr

I am actually afraid to ever lift the tank ever again!

Glad I got that off my chest!

Did you remember to block off the hole in the airbox after removing everything.

Hi TJ, Yeah no problems with that, had another look last night and tightened down the front plate again.

All is good now, no popping and banging and maybe a little smoother too, happy days.

No worries, I always mention it as it's something not everybody realises needs to be done, they just stick the plates on and then start sucking dirty air into their engine through the new open hole in the airbox.

Hello: I am a new member and I could really use a hand with a problem with the SAS valve error code, I have read everything I could find on this subject on this site, So this is where Im At, 2007 Ktm 990 SD removed all the smog " Racing only" and installed the block off plates, Removed the SAS valve and installed a 1k om 1/4 amp resistor and the bike is flashing a 54 code, I have used the xc1 tool because I worked for a KTM dealer for years but no longer, I bought a innerface cable from adv rider " very nice people" downloaded the tune ecu software and have innerfaced with the bikes ecu, Found in the program delete error code and clicked on it, The function continues to come back with the errors code and says thats its still open or a short to ground, I have ck, replace and increased to 2k omes with no change? I have unplugged the ecu and ck continuity from the w/p looking wire to the ecu and is good and no short to ground, The other wire "Orange" goes to a bundle of orange wires crimped together which run though out the bike. I dont understand why the the code keeps coming back? Ideas please. Thank you,