16T

All,

Can anyone who has fitted the 16t front sprocket tell me how much difference it makes? i.e., how many revs are gained at say 70mph, also does the smaller sprocket have any affect on the chain rubbing the swingarm?

I only want to change my gearing slightly, and was thinking of going up one or two teeth on the back, but this may involve a new chain, so the front sprocket option is way easier...

Boysie.

I am getting one this week so i should have it fitted by early next week. I'll keep u posted

been running a 16t for about 5 months now

no chain rubbing noticed, i suspect the rubber guard will get worn down a bit sooner though

revs in 6th (as far as i can remember) are 4500 at 60mph / 100kmh

the 16t was a no brainer as i ride in the city a lot and it helps negate 1st gear clutch abuse, not to mention the extra "oomph". rideability was not sacrificed imo

What about highspeed runs.?

I always thought the SD felt as if it needed more pull in top. I hope to find it with a 16th.

aforementioned "oomph" is very nicely spread across the whole power curve

especially noted in 5th and 6th gear (rode a non-geared SD recently and 6th felt like it took forever to reach 7000rpm)

from what i remember top speed in motogp crouching position was around 235 km/h (with akras & remapping)

can you guys tell me where you get the 16T front sprocket from ?

i am in the UK

Got my SD. back last week after fitting of 16T front sprocket.(Also Steering damper and larger Carbon Tank).
Can only say bike is now as I had imagined it would be, when I originally ordered it.

Now pulls a lot better in the higher gears(Don't find myself cruising in 4rth!!!. Anymore!).

Have only done one Hundred mile round trip so far. As it's Blizzard conditions round my way at Mo.(Scottish M/Cycle show was cancelled today because of this)

Sprocket was ordered through dealer and took about 10 days to arrive.f

Gearbox seal has to be paid attention to when removing replacing sprocket. It's quite delicate and can weep/leak.(Ahem....Speaking from experience.).

I've fitted a 16T last week and I think this is THE bang for the buck mod of all. Just as it was on my 950ADV by the way.

Sommer Germany already said that this is an almost 'mandatory' mod on the SD. And they are right. The stock gearing is way too tall, just like on the ADV but even worse. In town and through traffic you're often jerking along too high in 1st or chain snatching low in 2nd while 3d is almost unuseable. Gone with the 16T. The entire gearbox falls into place. The sometimes snatchy FI at small throttle openings is at least 50% gone 'cos the engine isn't pulling that (too) high gearing. But now throttle response and acceleration is even more insane!!

I have a spreadsheet that calculates the gearing back to (max) speed in each gear taking the entire transmission into accout. Primary ratio, the gear ratios, wheel & tyre size and final drive ratio. A 16T lowers the top speed at the 9500 redline from a theoretical 253KMH/158MPH to a more realistic 240KMH/150MPH. A mere 5% reduction. But it gets the A LOT faster. The speed-range from 1st gear goes from 103KMH/64MPH to 97KMH/60MPH.

These figures also show that a smaller step like 17/40 doesn't make much sense to do. Get a 16T today, it's the best thing you can do to your SD!

I have just re-geared my SD with a 17/41 combo. This is the stock gearing on the 950 supermoto. And this is also lower gearing than the 16/38 combo. I like it alot.

wish I had seen this before. Need to go back and use the torch wrench as could not use it right.

The only thing I found was I had to take the rear wheel off to get the chain off to fit the front sprocket.

It was such a job getting the wheel back on and the spindle back in. Now the rear wheel does not turn freely, it feels like a lot of resisitance to turn.

Any idea, the brake looks ok, just can not work it out? Sorry non technical dim whit

Amazing... The 16T is THE mod on an SD so far IMO. Jerkyness and snatchy throttle response are at least 60% less. The gearbox ratios make sense now. Crawling through traffic and through the city is a breeze instead of jerking through the box and the acceleration is blistering.

The stock 17/38 gearing translates to a theoretical 253KM/H or 158MPH. 16/38 to a slightly more realistic 239KM/H or 149MPH.

great idea! will give it a thinker!

A 39 doesn't exist. You'll have to get one made one-off. Renthal does this (among others probably) but it takes a long time.

Blimey!

How much better is this bike with the 16T fitted?

I can't believe it isn't fitted as standard.

I had to do the same with my 03 Touno 16 tooth on the frunt ,it was grate but even beter when I went one up on the back as well , I had beter order one then when I pick the bike up , cheers .

Renthal has their sprockets availble for the SD:

Renthal:
990 Super Duke 2006 - Front Sprocket
Part No. 407A
Chain Size 525
Std Teeth 17
Alt Teeth -
Ultra Light N

990 Super Duke 2006 - Rear Sprocket
Part No. 443U
Chain Size 525
Std Teeth 41 (is stated but really is 38T)
Alt Teeth 35-56
Ultra Light Y

JT Sprockets:
- Front model# is JTF 1904.17 (only 17)
- Rear model # is JTR 898.41 (sizes are 38 and 41 only)

Rear compatability:
I have compared the SD rear sprocket with most other mainstream makes and models and none use this sprocket; including the Adventurer. The only compatible model I have found for the rear is teh KTM Supermoto 950.

Front compatability:
Fronts rear sprocket are directly compatible with the 950 and 990 Adventurers.

Rental:
JT:

And for you lads in the UK - B&C express supply Renthal:


BTW: the standard chain is a 525, length for the 17/38 sprockets is 110 links.

The easiest way to check if 7mm was enough, would be to set the tension then remove the rear shock, move the suspension up and down manualy and check the tension at it's extremes of movement. The TL1000s had a real problem with chain tension, if you adjusted it to the workshop manual, it would tighted during suspension compresion and either stretch the chain to death, snap it or destroy the output shaft bearing behind the front sprocket, and thats an engine strip to replace, not good, so you ran it slack. Maybe it's something worth looking at. Any volunteers?

Hi Mate, I'll try answer a few of these questions for you, although I'm sure others will also have some input. If you don't intend doing the job yourself (why not? it's easy.) then wether or not you let the dealer do it in the service is up to you. As for changing oil and replacing seals, you certainly won't have to do either. I think a member mentioned that when he came to do the job he found the seal weeping, but it isn't caused by changing the sprocket (unless you stick a screwdriver behind the sprocket to get it off, then it probably would leak!) The wearing out of the rubber chainguards was brought up because with a small front sprocket, the chain runs closer to the swingarm, meaning that the rubbers could be potentialy worn out sooner. This problem was dismissed when you realise that the '07 model comes with the smaller 16T sprocket as standard. So there can't be any problem there otherwise KTM would have put a bigger sprocket on the back instead. Also, It's a KTM part, I doubt they would sell it if it caused damage to customers bikes. So either get the spanners out or get it down the dealers, but I would do it now, if you wait for the service you will probably kick yourself for not doing it sooner .

Hi All,

Thanks for the responses . I'm sold.

fred

Just out of interest, the marketing bumph says the 07 models have 16/38 setup as standard, but the owner's manual still says 17/38.

Odd! I was hoping to get the right chain tension settings from the new model's handbook

At the moment (12 hours into SD ownership) I just want smoother. Every time I hit a bump in the road at a small throttle opening I think I'm going to launch myself off the back!

Discovered (rather embaressingly) that my SD has already got 16T fitted.

So I can't compare to the 17T, but do find the combination of low revs/low gears takes some getting used to.
A couple of things I'm finding helps - a cramp buster helps me keep my throttling smooth (a cheap & 10 second mod for about £6 & great for long journeys). I also use a touch of back brake when fine control is needed.

Neither of these solve the twitchy fuelling - just help to minimise the effect.

Cheers, Paul

Just got round to getting this mod done, and I'm really pleased. I did the gear position sensor mod a few weeks ago and the combination has made a real difference. These are the only performance mods I've made (so far!) and I'm really pleased with the bike just the way it is now. That's not to say there's nothing to do but I can concentrate on just riding the thing now....

Hi Everybody. Like the forum.

New member sticking his oar in (Grey 07 SD waiting for round Akro's). If anybody wants to drop the gearing you would better off going the 17 / 40 route rather than 16 / 38. Apparently 17 is the smallest recommended sprocket in any chain drive application for reliability and longevity. If you've already swapped over to 16, next time you need a chain and sprockets just buy a 40 rear and stick your 17 back on.

Don't you think KTM would put a 17T sprocket on if a 16T would harm the chain?

A lot of firms use 14's and 15's - doesn't necessarily mean it's good engineering practice. Who ever thought that running cams without bearings was a good idea and as for chrome plating brake discs....... Apparently it's all down to the radius, going below 17 is reckoned to be less than optimum. 17 /40 will also give you a tad more clearance between the chain and the swing arm pivot point - could be useful when it gets a bit slappy.

Just a thought.

Tony

My Ducati 748R came with a 14 tooth front sprocket as standard. Never had any problems with the chain.

Actually that was the ONLY thing i didn't have problems with...

Radius of the front sprocket would be of concern if the pitch of the chain could not sustain the smaller diameter.........



KTM obviously consider the 05/06 owners opinion to be valid as they copied the majoritys gearing set up for the 07 model.... enjoy it

My US model came with a 16T/38 straight from factory.

naa,
the manufacturer will agree, when you change the chain, change the
sprockets too, they all wear as one. so if you have racked up some miles it may be best to change it all. reliability is priceless if you want to have a pleasing ride. peace...........joe

I thought '06 were 17/38 and KTM switched in '07 to 16/38?

Yea just came from garage 16 / 38.
So what now -----are the boys talking 16 / 40 ? as a even better ratio

Lots have done 16/40. Joe likes 16/41. I just switched to 16/40 and like it, but in some ways I liked 16/38 better - it seemed smoother and less buzzy. I only remember one person posting that they've gone back to 16/38 after 16/40. I think people generally ditch 17/38 for at least 16/38. Someone did a poll on here on gearing - you might look for that. There also is a gearing spreadsheet floating around on here.

Ya but we all know Joe is from else where.Else where far away with lotsa twisty roads.






Peace Joe ! afore you start.

how d'you keep the front wheel down in 1st? ..or don't you?

no the 17 is a misprint that ktm does not need to correct, what some do is order/buy a 16 tooth then the dealer installs it, then they pay,

then they come on here to find out they paid to have it replaced for nothing.. ahh the glory of it all. (07 & up mind)..

up to a 41 tooth rear requires nothing but the adjuster blocks flipped to compensate for the difference, no need to change the front less it is worn out.

joe likes to do rolling 1st & 2nd power wheelies with no effort, since I am not lurking for the 140 mph top speed, who really cares, just need to watch for bill.

now to say... take the counter cover off, wipe the muck off, you will see a part # there, the last 2 digits are the tooth count.