Bleeding the cooling system

Superdan

Superdan

Ok, thinking about flushing the cooling system to get the possible casting sand out, as I'm prolly going to keep the bike for a while and this definitely will be a problem.

Problem with this is the bleeding part, as I've read that you have to lift the front approx 50 cm off the ground. I have no means to lift the front so high. Thinking about getting a front stand and piling wood under it to get it to lift the front wheel a bit higher, but this seems a bit hazardous to do all by yourself.

Is there any other sure way to bleed the system in one go other than lift the front? How much coolant will the system take, this to know whether there's air in or not?
harvester

harvester

Yes it has to be lifted up to "burp" the system, can you not become inventive with lifting the front? push the front up some stairs, hang it from roof rafters etc

Sounds like you would need a couple of mates to hold it.

How many miles you done? If you aint done more than 20,000 miles I would not bother.

And casting sand???? Surely there would be none of that in there.
ktmguy

ktmguy

Casting sand in the cooling circulation is a well known issue with LC8. Getting rid of it early as possible prolongs the life of the waterpump shaft/seal and of course for obvious reasons.

The bike is hauled up in a single story building and there is currently -20 degrees C outside and a shitload of snow. Roof beams are not accessible to tie anything on to.

I'm just making sure that there is no other sure way to do it than raising the front, as for aforementioned reasons I can't go for test ride

Maybe I'll just have to clear all the shit out of the garage and build a ramp of some sort or something.
TC's SD

TC's SD

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jmann

jmann

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harvester

harvester

just use a ramp and your best riding bud to hold the bike, literally takes a couple of minutes, i rocked the bike around a bit to help the bubbles
TC's SD

TC's SD

You can just flush the system out like any other. Raising the front is, as Dan suggests, just a mechanism to "burp" the thing. In reality just jiggling the bike around is probably as good - you just need to keep an eye on the coolant levels for the first couple of rides. Chucking it down the road would probably also work for burping.
MishMash

MishMash

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TC's SD

TC's SD

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tuciz

tuciz

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Stratkat

Stratkat

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Stratkat

Stratkat

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DukeMonster

DukeMonster

Hi guys!

Soon i will receive thermoswitch from UK. For that thanks to user - No. 47.

But i need some advice for changing all liquid in cooling system + bleeding.

Now in system i have - Denicol Sub Zero cooler, but because of overheating problem i want to change thermoswitch + cooling liquid.
I want to fill system with Motorex Anti freez, maybe it will be better for engine than Sub Zero.(Maybe some other liquid will be better???)
Tried to find information in forum, how to change it step by step and bleed it, but didn't find. (i know that i need to lift up front wheel when i start filling up system). But never tried it at home...
Of course i read the manual too, but if honest didn't understand.
Maybe somebody could write that in here? Or maybe in some forum i can find that? And if there would be pictures too, it would be ideally.

And what is the difference for Motorex - G30 ? G48 ? and without any mark??? EDIT - found some information.

Coolant based on ethylene glycol provides excellent protection for all modern engines but particularly aluminium engines operating under high loads. Free of silicates, nitrates, amines and phosphates (OAT technology).
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Coolant based on ethylene glycol. It meets the strictest requirements of various manufacturers. Free of nitrates, amines and phosphates.
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boney95

boney95

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TLS_Russ

TLS_Russ

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boney95

boney95

I took my water pump off and used the water hose to flush out the block along with flushing out from the radiator side. After I re-installed the water pump, I just left the radiator hose off of it and put the water hose in it and filled it from the bottom up until the water was coming out of the radiator neck and hose. I then quickly connected the radiator hose to the water pump. I then filled whatever was lost during the hook up of the radiator hose and water pump with Redline Water Wetter. Filled up the overflow to the min mark..and went for a ride. That was 1000 miles ago with 1 track day with no coolant level drop from air, and no overheating. Unless you are filling with distilled water..then the hose in the water pump should minimize air in the system.