Chain tension after 40t sprocket
29 posts · Started by Superdan · 02 Mar 2008
Post 2 by Superdan,
#2Post 3 by Sabre,
#3Cheers
Post 4 by Sabre,
#4when you check yer chain adjustment you need to push the back of your bike down with all yer weight,
make sure there is no tension in the chain it needs to have a small amount of slack in it.
You need to flip the adjustment marker blocks over so the raised part
points towards the back of the bike this will give you about another 10mm's of extra space.
joe has just fit a 41 tooth rear and loved the difference at the track, much better ! as far as top end difference,
I am sure there is a mathematical chart to show exactly how many miles per hour you loose per tooth added.
It is a small percentage of loss per tooth. 2nd gear power wheelies are no longer an issue.
Post 5 by Superdan,
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Post 6 by Dr F,
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Post 7 by Superdan,
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Post 8 by Rob377,
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Post 9 by smoky,
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Post 10 by Dr F,
#10In reality, you hit an aerodynamic brick wall in the high 130s/ low 140s (indicated). The non-so-aerodynamic superduke's top speed is limited by that, not gearing. The upshot is that in the real world, you lose NO top-end by fitting a 40T. You will top-out in the 130-140 range regardless of what sprocket combo you have. The only downside is slightly higher RPM at cruising speed. The upside of course is much better acceleration and easier wheelies.
Post 11 by Rob377,
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Post 12 by smoky,
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Post 13 by Dr F,
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Post 14 by Rob377,
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Post 15 by Dr F,
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Post 16 by Rob377,
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Post 17 by Dr F,
#17joe knew this but dont like the attention......(yeah right) true this! go ROB spank it,, styley
Post 18 by Rob377,
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Post 19 by Dr F,
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Post 20 by Rob377,
#20For instance, the bike gets to 140mph, the clutch starts to slip and revs increase until it hits the limiter without any increase in speed, wouldn't the speedo still show 140mph?
Post 21 by smoky,
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Post 22 by smoky,
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Post 23 by YAMRED,
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Post 24 by Superdan,
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Post 25 by YAMRED,
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Post 26 by YAMRED,
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Post 27 by lockers,
#27Post 28 by YAMRED,
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Post 29 by lockers,
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