chains

I set mine by the book (7mm) and it seems fine. Does your swingarm guard show any excessive wear? I definitely error on the loose side. Do you have a lot of miles on your final drive? Maybe it is worn and needs replacing? Maybe check the slack in multiple points on the chain. You might have measured at a particularly tight section.

Yeah I tend to go for the standard setting too, but only because I have the mechanical knowledge of a prawn and I am fearful of meddling with dark, technical forces I do not fully understand. That said book settings seem to work ok for me.

Big mistake overtightening the chain it can lead to all sorts of problems it will wear out quicker can destroy the output shaft bearing , the chain tightens as you sit on your bike because the front sprocket is lower than the swingarm pivot point, the slack has to allow for you hitting a big bump if its to tight you wont get full travel and it could snap.

MMMM thort I wood just arsk thanks for the replys ,its that it just grates me at times seeing it hanging there like it dose .Iam an anal twat and iff thats what KTM recomend then thats what it is set at , I can live with the chater of the chain ,

but since I have set my statick sagg,and dynamick sagg all so now on the rear end priloading the rear spring ,and stifferning the rear end up now the chain seems even more louser and chatery , so I was thinking now its stiffer and not compresing so much maybe I coud get awya with taking out a bit more of the slack iff you get what I am saying ,

Bike handels loveley now no dipping arownd through the gears and go's rownd eny bend on the line I whont it to , Simple's

Mark, I hear the same noise on mine also, at certain rpm's and loads, too loose with this 'no linkage' shock is better that too tight imo.

hey collyer, just remember they..the engineers are the one's that can't seem to get away from snatch?

You are so naive to think they care?

the specs are on new parts that do not account for wear and tear, the only exp. with the almighty ktm for me and the mechanics they train is pure rubbish!!!

They grossly overtightened my chain on my brand new 06 950 sm !!! fecking idiots!!

try figuring out if it means from the swingarm or the guide since that well designed pic does not really specify...

if they were paid on performance...... oh that's right.. they are laying people off in Austria!!


(i drink it strong meself mate)...

Jester, no malice to my question just curious as I have thought it must be very difficult to write in that way, and other reasons hadn't occurred to me. My bad.
To get back on to the subject, I have always adjusted my chain to the 7mm gap as shown in the handbook, or even a tad looser i.e. 5mm gap. Personally I always prefer to have the chains on all my bikes to be on the loose side rather than tight to avoid any risk at all of damaging output bearings through overloading as the suspension goes through it's arc. Provided the chain is in good condition the only downside I have found is a bit more chain noise when riding at low rpm in a tall gear, so I avoid riding in this manner.

There's a thread on it somewhere, that you might find with some creative searching. It explains it, along with some religious philosophy. He even writes for a magazine, he has a translator, editor, that takes dictation from him, and sort it out. Freestyler won't take offence,..he's a freestyler. It comes with the territory, like Stupid Luke, and joe, and the photo experts, and the racers, and the bling addicts, and the mechanics, and the Shade, and all the other madasses. you ain't seen nothin' yet.

Another way is to not bother lubricating your chain at all - theory being is that chain lube is sticky, which the grit sticks to and thus wears the seals.

the main problem with that theory is RUST.