D.I.Y. Oil change.

i've done it 4 times so far, yes it is a bit of a pain - but easy enough to do. you might need one of these 'reverse' pliers to pull out the filter, and if you have no air-compressor, you can use a can of compressed air (one for moving dust around your computer) to blow off any particles from the 2 screens. if you don't change your ail too often, you might need solvent/wd40/carb cleaner etc to clean off the screens, i didn't (but i have only 3000km, and changed oil 4 times)
i'd be carefull with brake cleaner specially on the oil tank screen.. it might damage the rubber gasket - not too sure on that, but i thought this stuff was bad for rubber. maybe. i think. just read the label.

I just performed my first oil change on the SD and it was definitely more of a pain than any of the Hondas I've previously owned. Two separate drain points because of the external oil tank, an internal oil filter, and two internal oil screens. Very different from a single drain point and a threaded, external filter. However, having done one now, I can say that it will be easier and quicker the next time.
One thing I'll definitely be changing next time is the type of filter. I've been in contact with the owner of HS Performance Parts lately and they have a replacement filter for our bikes that is identical to the Scotts filter. Their web site is
The one thing that gave me the hardest time was the removal of the stock oil filter. I ended up being able to get it out with a pair on needle nose plyers but dont want to do that again. What is needed is a pair of reverse needle nose. Does KTM have a tool they sell for this?

for $10 i bought fairly cheep-looking set of 8 circlip pliers. 4 are 'regular' type, 4 are the reversed. they work great for removing the filter, and once i even used them for a circlip....

I finally did my own oil change the other day...what a chore compared to a basic Japanese bike...but a very thorough (complex, Germanic) job at ensuring the oil stays clean...all those traps and filters...I put in a permanent stainless filter and 3 litres of the recommended expensive oil...but it still only reads minimum in that little plastic tube...I know I put in 3 litres..should I add a bit more?..or just accept that the little clear oil tube may not be all that accurate?

At my first service my dealer put in synthetic blend; at second service, full synth.

Monk, in general the consensus is you don't break an engine in with synthetic oil. It's to slippery and won't allow the rings to seat properly. I believe KTM recommends Motorex synth as the oil to use from your first oil change on. Me personally I'm going to run petroleum based oil for another 1000 or so miles and then switch to synthetic.

Quote{But the again everybody probably knew this but me.}

No Bro, not that way at all, I came in here just like you wanting some answers, not always getting them but most of the time I did.

This was a perplexing question that always left me with a sour taste in my mouth,

I would question the powers above as to why the fact KTM wanted to play these games with specifications? especially oil fill quantities.

to clarify I must, to try to get a grip on the analogy I do. Now I feel like I have a firm understanding on the oil fill capacity procedures. It took time.

Could it state 2.5 litres for ocassions when you change the oil but not the filter?

It's very rare to put the full oil capacity in straightaway on any dry sump bike (or dry sump car for that matter) as the oil tank isn't usually big enough.

I guess if you are coming from a wet sump bike this can seem a little odd

Digger, that makes sense. Now when I think about it my Aprilia SXV550 was the same way. The tank would fill up quicker than it could drain into the engine and overflow.

The oil level is now higher than the max. mark. The sight tube is completely full. I had added a total of 3.4 liters when I did the oil change.

I ran the engine until 4 bars were showing on temp gauge then turned off the engine. Bike is level. So I believe I'm getting an acurate reading.

So what's the best way to drain off some oil? Thanks

One more tip ...

When changing my oil and pulling the screens and what not, I protected the nearby parts and headers from getting splashed by wrapping aluminium foil/tin foil around the headers & the wiring harnesses so that when the oil comes dripping out, it doesn't muck everything up.

This especially came in handy when pulling out the paper filter & the oil tank return valve. I was outside and the wind suddenly picked up and blew oil everywhere.

The foil definitely made for a speedy clean-up.

oops. . . double post! sorry.

Did oil chage for the first time today...dealers tightened the bottom drain plug with God's own air gun. Had to use a breaker to get the thing off.

All in all, wasn't too bad. Much more involved than anything I've ever owned. Brake cleaner is some nasty juice! Cleans the screens right up tho.

...side note: the missus watches those Intervention-type shows. They just had one on someone who sucks down the compressed air for a quick high. That shit is scary! Cold too when I used it to dry everything up.

Anyway, took a whole lot more time than expected, but should be quicker next time.