I know the book says Motorex Power Synt 4t 10w/50. just priced it up and thought it was a joke, way expensive.
what are people using in their SD's for oil changes?
what are people using in their SD's for oil changes?
Engine Oil
39 posts · Started by CEREC1 · 27 Feb 2013
Post 2 by CEREC1,
#2Shell Rotella! I use the T6 synthetic (5w40) but a lot of people use the T5 conventional (15W40).
Post 3 by Colonel_Klinck,
#3Post missing
This post could not be recovered from the original forum.
Post 4 by Colonel_Klinck,
#4im asking all riders
what do you use?
i have some motorex top speed 4t 15w50, was going to use that
what do you use?
i have some motorex top speed 4t 15w50, was going to use that
Post 5 by SDNerd,
#5Post missing
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Post 6 by TLS_Russ,
#6agree
thank you
thank you
Post 7 by JohnJJr,
#7I use Putoline 10W60 and its pricey but mine has 49k hard miles on it and a lot of track days. Why skimp on such an important part that keeps the engine in as good a condition as is possible. I tend to drop my oil every 3.5k miles as well. I had my top end apart last winter at 42k miles the bores looked like this. You decide if it was money well spent.
Post 8 by omky756,
#8wanna see some pics of your bike. where can i find those?
Post 9 by JohnJJr,
#9Well it's not like me to be a picture whore but as you asked
She is undergoing a revamp for the racing season ahead so will be looking a little different soon. She is also sporting SDR forks and calipers since that shot
She is undergoing a revamp for the racing season ahead so will be looking a little different soon. She is also sporting SDR forks and calipers since that shot
Post 10 by boney95,
#10Nice
Curious
What's up with the nazi cartman icon?
Curious
What's up with the nazi cartman icon?
Post 11 by AGRO!,
#11Ever watch South Park? I think this is the episode http://www.southparkstudios.com/full-ep ... 07-pinkeye, or maybe this one? http://www.southparkstudios.com/full-ep ... of-the-jew
Klinck is an admin.
Klinck is an admin.
Post 12 by Colonel_Klinck,
#12I use the Motorex Power Synt 10/60W, I heard its what they use in the KTM Dakar bikes.........
Good oil is always cheaper than engine rebuilds
Good oil is always cheaper than engine rebuilds
Post 13 by Hotbrakes,
#13Did you do the single seat conversion?
How is comfort compared to stock 2 up seat?
How is comfort compared to stock 2 up seat?
Post 14 by hjp1968,
#14I have a friend that talked extensively with the guy that formulates Rotella T .. the 15-40 grade is the recommended. It's what a majority of the Diesel truckers use - it's designed for high compression extreme load diesel trucks ( think about that )... The claims are the kicker to the 15-40 is the Zinc which will coat engine parts ( over time ) ....
So my friend has a couple harleys ( don't kill me now ) but he runs the Rotella exclusively in them . Says after 5 K miles he checked the oil and it's still clean as a whistle . I'd be inclined to change it anyway before then - but - the other kicker is the stuff is very inexpensive comes in around 18 bucks $ for 4 liters .
I've run it in my SD and it seemed to like it . Shifting felt slightly improved - only ran it one 3k cycle and changed back to Amsoil ... I may go back to the Rotella tho ... one of those 50/50 decisions...
I will add a short story about Amsoil - there were some guys doing delivery in a Ford Econoline that were racking up around 100,000 miles per year. Changing oil every week or something like that with conventional oil ( like Castrol or something ) which can add up the cost of oil --- so Amsoil reps said to use Amsoil because it has a 25K mile oil change interval- so they started using Amsoil - the Van ran over 900,000 miles ( almost one million ) and it had a mechanical failure - so Amsoil said " we'll check it out for free as a study " - they found that the failure was a simple valve spring retainer clip broke , but they said the rest of the engine showed basically no wear and would have kept running and running.....
OK - I'm done now
So my friend has a couple harleys ( don't kill me now ) but he runs the Rotella exclusively in them . Says after 5 K miles he checked the oil and it's still clean as a whistle . I'd be inclined to change it anyway before then - but - the other kicker is the stuff is very inexpensive comes in around 18 bucks $ for 4 liters .
I've run it in my SD and it seemed to like it . Shifting felt slightly improved - only ran it one 3k cycle and changed back to Amsoil ... I may go back to the Rotella tho ... one of those 50/50 decisions...
I will add a short story about Amsoil - there were some guys doing delivery in a Ford Econoline that were racking up around 100,000 miles per year. Changing oil every week or something like that with conventional oil ( like Castrol or something ) which can add up the cost of oil --- so Amsoil reps said to use Amsoil because it has a 25K mile oil change interval- so they started using Amsoil - the Van ran over 900,000 miles ( almost one million ) and it had a mechanical failure - so Amsoil said " we'll check it out for free as a study " - they found that the failure was a simple valve spring retainer clip broke , but they said the rest of the engine showed basically no wear and would have kept running and running.....
OK - I'm done now
Post 15 by Palau,
#15I'm liking the Amsoil too...
1/2 price to the Motrex..
They are one of the original "synthetic"
oils..Shifts smoother too using Amsoil..
I have thoughts to running the Rotella diesel
blends for the zinc added..
I AM under warantee currently...
What they don't know is I do oil
changes in between...
Shhhhhh...
1/2 price to the Motrex..
They are one of the original "synthetic"
oils..Shifts smoother too using Amsoil..
I have thoughts to running the Rotella diesel
blends for the zinc added..
I AM under warantee currently...
What they don't know is I do oil
changes in between...
Shhhhhh...
Post 16 by boney95,
#16Post missing
This post could not be recovered from the original forum.
Post 17 by tuciz,
#17Frequency of oil change; now that could start a debate and a half.
In my opinion, it’s down to type of use.
Track days = more frequent changes.
Bike used for short runs, never gets oil hot enough for long enough to burn off moisture = more frequent
changes.
Use cheap oil = more frequent changes (best not use cheap oil as it may equal more frequent engine changes).
What is the oil change frequency? KTM advise 4,500 miles or 1 year.
So using a quality oil of correct viscosity with normal operation and adequate heat cycles, we should be good for 4,500 miles. Having said that, I use expensive oil and can’t get away from changing oil every 2,000 miles.
Above 32f. For those using an oil which is not a 10/something, but a 15/something or 20/something, two questions if I may; 1) did you detect any clutch drag when you moved from a 10/something to your ‘thicker at cold’ oil? 2) KTM’s focus on ‘ready to race’ may suggest oil ways are designed narrow and hence they may deem there is a need to use a 10/something oil, if that were the case, is there a concern for your engines ability to adequately lubricate itself on cold start up?
In my opinion, it’s down to type of use.
Track days = more frequent changes.
Bike used for short runs, never gets oil hot enough for long enough to burn off moisture = more frequent
changes.
Use cheap oil = more frequent changes (best not use cheap oil as it may equal more frequent engine changes).
What is the oil change frequency? KTM advise 4,500 miles or 1 year.
So using a quality oil of correct viscosity with normal operation and adequate heat cycles, we should be good for 4,500 miles. Having said that, I use expensive oil and can’t get away from changing oil every 2,000 miles.
Above 32f. For those using an oil which is not a 10/something, but a 15/something or 20/something, two questions if I may; 1) did you detect any clutch drag when you moved from a 10/something to your ‘thicker at cold’ oil? 2) KTM’s focus on ‘ready to race’ may suggest oil ways are designed narrow and hence they may deem there is a need to use a 10/something oil, if that were the case, is there a concern for your engines ability to adequately lubricate itself on cold start up?
Post 18 by Linga,
#18Hi guys,
need help very fast
I plan to change engine oil after few days and I want to understand, which will be the best choice.
At the moment I have Motorex :
But as I have heard, Motorex isn't best choice, although it's official KTM oil...
At the moment I think about Motul 300V 4T Factory Line 15W50!
Can You suggest something???
Thanks.
need help very fast
I plan to change engine oil after few days and I want to understand, which will be the best choice.
At the moment I have Motorex :
But as I have heard, Motorex isn't best choice, although it's official KTM oil...
At the moment I think about Motul 300V 4T Factory Line 15W50!
Can You suggest something???
Thanks.
Post 19 by AGRO!,
#19I do like Motul, but 15/50 is not 10/50, that is to say, it’s not thin enough when the engine is cold as recommended by KTM, it’s a bit on the thick side when starting the engine. Motul make a 10/60 the 7100, usually obtained from off-road bike shops.
Any 10/50 or 10/60 fully synthetic quality MOTORCYCLE oil should do the job
Any 10/50 or 10/60 fully synthetic quality MOTORCYCLE oil should do the job
Post 20 by tuciz,
#20RedLine 20/50 here. I had considered using Rotella but I'll stick with an oil made for motorcycle usage. Using something that was not desgined with a wet clutch application in mind concerns me a bit, so I stay away from automotive application oils. Might all be in my head but that is my $.02
Post 21 by Linga,
#21I change the oil every 3 track days or before a race and this year I'm running Belray.
Ran it before they decided to help out as I rang them to confirm operating temps.
I find it holds up far better than Motul as Motul was thin and black on change.
We run hot temps here on the west even in winter so that may affect choice.
Ran it before they decided to help out as I rang them to confirm operating temps.
I find it holds up far better than Motul as Motul was thin and black on change.
We run hot temps here on the west even in winter so that may affect choice.
Post 22 by tuciz,
#22Penrite 15/50 Racing full synthetic. http://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/
Post 23 by Linga,
#23He, thank you for advices, really appreciate it!
As I understand Motul is out off competition now! OK
Main problem, why I want to try new oil is - heating problem! (thermoswitch for fan is changed already)
Engine temperature is increasing very fast when I am in city traffic.
I want to find oil which doesn't heat up so much and works good in hot conditions.
At the moment I can get - Red Line 10W40 Motorcycle Oil :
What do You think about it? Would it be ok?
Second thing, which I want to change is coolant! At the moment I have Denicol Sub-Zero water cooler.
I want to change it to - Red Line SuperCool with WaterWetter.
any experience?
Linga, can You please post in, which Belray oil You use?
Thanx.
As I understand Motul is out off competition now! OK
Main problem, why I want to try new oil is - heating problem! (thermoswitch for fan is changed already)
Engine temperature is increasing very fast when I am in city traffic.
I want to find oil which doesn't heat up so much and works good in hot conditions.
At the moment I can get - Red Line 10W40 Motorcycle Oil :
What do You think about it? Would it be ok?
Second thing, which I want to change is coolant! At the moment I have Denicol Sub-Zero water cooler.
I want to change it to - Red Line SuperCool with WaterWetter.
any experience?
Linga, can You please post in, which Belray oil You use?
Thanx.
Post 24 by AGRO!,
#24Belray EXP
Be careful on the water wetter as it is not a corrosion inhibitor for magnesium alloy engines.
I blew a head gasket finding that one in the small print.
Be careful on the water wetter as it is not a corrosion inhibitor for magnesium alloy engines.
I blew a head gasket finding that one in the small print.
Post 25 by JohnJJr,
#25Post missing
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Post 26 by Linga,
#2610-50 mate. That part is up to you though.
I'm running temps of around 120C on 40C days on hard track riding.
15-20min sessions.
I'm running temps of around 120C on 40C days on hard track riding.
15-20min sessions.
Post 27 by tuciz,
#27Post missing
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Post 28 by Linga,
#28'i'm going to put a shout out for Rotella T 15-40 ....
Know someone who spent hours on the phone with the man who formulates Rotella T and have heard alot .
the oil takes the abuse of extreme high compression diesel engines which can't hurt on motorcycle engines either.
i personally have done quite a bit of study on oils and the Rotella T has all the right stuff in it needed for Motorcycles and ranks among the TOP of comparison studies......
anyway that's all i'm gona say cause Oil is like Politics and Religion but don't you dare take my guns away
Know someone who spent hours on the phone with the man who formulates Rotella T and have heard alot .
the oil takes the abuse of extreme high compression diesel engines which can't hurt on motorcycle engines either.
i personally have done quite a bit of study on oils and the Rotella T has all the right stuff in it needed for Motorcycles and ranks among the TOP of comparison studies......
anyway that's all i'm gona say cause Oil is like Politics and Religion but don't you dare take my guns away
Post 29 by tuciz,
#29^^^^^^^^
Post 30 by Hotbrakes,
#30Post missing
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Post 31 by Linga,
#31Sorry mate, at work for the month so to confirm will take 3 weeks!!!
All this is running from memory as I'm 35nm out at sea...
I'd be very careful just running what I run as the temps in your area may be different ie, winter temps or cold startup.
Our minimum in the middle of winter may just get to 16C or so (colder sometimes) and my bike is for track only so gets warmed on the stand before going anywhere.
Your best bet would be to ring Lithuania? and ask for advice on the correct range. Similar to just putting someone elses map in your bike with out any motor data... I just don't do it if I can help it.
I can only comment on the quality of the oil I've used not the temp specific type.
Don't be afraid to ask the head of the branch and if you don't get the info you need, go higher.
All this is running from memory as I'm 35nm out at sea...
I'd be very careful just running what I run as the temps in your area may be different ie, winter temps or cold startup.
Our minimum in the middle of winter may just get to 16C or so (colder sometimes) and my bike is for track only so gets warmed on the stand before going anywhere.
Your best bet would be to ring Lithuania? and ask for advice on the correct range. Similar to just putting someone elses map in your bike with out any motor data... I just don't do it if I can help it.
I can only comment on the quality of the oil I've used not the temp specific type.
Don't be afraid to ask the head of the branch and if you don't get the info you need, go higher.
Post 32 by ktmguy,
#32It will be too late already
I have service at dealer on - 29.04.2013.
But I think it's EXS, as EXP don't even offer 10w50 from homepage information.
I was thinking about this one too:
But I guess Bel-Ray is better.
I think next oil changes etc, I will do by my own.
At dealer - oil change(Motorex Power SYNT 10w50), oil filter change, fluid change (brake fluid, clutch fluid -magura blood), with work and materials - ~240$.
I have service at dealer on - 29.04.2013.
But I think it's EXS, as EXP don't even offer 10w50 from homepage information.
I was thinking about this one too:
But I guess Bel-Ray is better.
I think next oil changes etc, I will do by my own.
At dealer - oil change(Motorex Power SYNT 10w50), oil filter change, fluid change (brake fluid, clutch fluid -magura blood), with work and materials - ~240$.
Post 33 by Hotbrakes,
#33Oil for hot / city work, starting point is use 10/60.
Post 34 by JohnJJr,
#34In reference to diesel engine shear forces, they are big motors hauling heavy loads. Lots of shear forces from the high compression heads, larger chunks of metal spinning and vibrating, and a big transmission slamming it all together.
One factor to consider is that oil begins its life as the cold viscosity rating, chemical chains are created using additives to form dual viscosity and achieve the hot viscosity rating. Shear forces, contaminants, and heat break these bonds reducing the oil to its original cold viscosity rating.
Unless someone is an engineer that builds either oil molecules or motorcycle engines, it's hard to say that deviating from the manufacturer's recommended oil viscosity is safe. A higher viscosity like 60 may subject the larger chemical structures to more shearing due to their higher resistance to movement, a lower viscosity such as 40 might slip into places and get squished, both scenarios causing premature break down of the chemical bonds. The best advice is to go with the recommended viscosity while adjusting the change intervals for the conditions the engine is subjected to. Conditions like high engine temperatures, prolonged high rpm's, short operating periods, dusty environments, and wet environments are common extremes that warrant more frequent changes.
One factor to consider is that oil begins its life as the cold viscosity rating, chemical chains are created using additives to form dual viscosity and achieve the hot viscosity rating. Shear forces, contaminants, and heat break these bonds reducing the oil to its original cold viscosity rating.
Unless someone is an engineer that builds either oil molecules or motorcycle engines, it's hard to say that deviating from the manufacturer's recommended oil viscosity is safe. A higher viscosity like 60 may subject the larger chemical structures to more shearing due to their higher resistance to movement, a lower viscosity such as 40 might slip into places and get squished, both scenarios causing premature break down of the chemical bonds. The best advice is to go with the recommended viscosity while adjusting the change intervals for the conditions the engine is subjected to. Conditions like high engine temperatures, prolonged high rpm's, short operating periods, dusty environments, and wet environments are common extremes that warrant more frequent changes.
Post 35 by tuciz,
#35+1
Post 36 by No. 47,
#36Post missing
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Post 37 by tuciz,
#37Post missing
This post could not be recovered from the original forum.
Post 38 by No. 47,
#38Post 39 by tuciz,
#39Thx No.47.
Tomorrow in morning I will check wiring. I really hope, that there isn't some serious problems.
Tomorrow in morning I will check wiring. I really hope, that there isn't some serious problems.
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