Header bolts = f#€k

Well my day going shit

Thought I'd get my exhaust off to fit a nice shiny one to the bike then I got carried away with my rusty nuts

Been there, done that, felt your pain.

On a plus note, when I ordered my new ones, they weren't that expensive

Comrade: I imagine you were looking for some guidance on what to do next. While I haven't had this problem on a duke I imagine you've still got a bit of the bolt left over once you take the header off. Assuming so I'd first start with wd40 THEN LEAVE IT OVERNIGHT. If there is any thread left you could try putting two thin nuts on locked together to give you some purchase then try undoing. Probably you wont have any thread so perhaps multigrips and sometimes even heat works. Another option while you have some stud left is to drill a hole that is smaller than the bolt for the appropriate size easyout - which if you are not familiar is a reverse threaded high tensile screw. Good luck and if you don't make any progress straight up, stop before you do more damage.

I was thinking the weld idea too.

But I'm not fortunate to own one so going to try the two nut method as I think I have a good 5/7mm thread left.

Shall keep you posted!

Thank you

Oh my other problem is this on the rear.

was



Just slipped on my 1/2 socket



So another headache

Been there a few times too........give me a call if you need help and I have spare studs and nuts if you need them.

How much for 3 mate for both studs and nuts

Had to take my exhaust off earlier in the year, graphite gasket knackered. Lots of soaking with Plusgas worked a treat. I use it at work on things that get 'kin hot for months at a time. When i put it back together I didn't use the standard nuts, got some that were either copper flashed or brass. They went on well and should come off easier in the future. They aren't self locking but I check them regular and they have moved yet.

well exhaust is off... what a nightmare!!

bought a nut extractor = what a pile of rubbish that was.. in the end i had to heat it right up sprayed some superslacks on it then knocked it round with a chisel...

and it didnt even snap. but i am going to replace them as they look tatty.

this is what im left with

Studs are good s/h, nuts new but cost peanuts so no charge.

I had this problem last year and a mate lent me a chuck type stud extractor, his was a snap on one but I can't find it in their catalogue. It looked exactly like this:

http://shop.tip-top.co.uk/catalog/Stud- ... 181_1.html

It grips tighter the harder you have to turn it but it WILL Fubar the studs....... But it was a revalation compared to the roller style stud extractors that I have. I also applied a bit of heat using a gas torch ....

My plan was to weld a nut on the end of the stud and hopefully pull it off

But I tried this earlier today and it was hard to get access and when we thought we had a good weld it broke under load.


So my plan is what you suggested GRIM and buy an extractor tomorrow and hope that works.

If not I have a contingency and I've tapped new thread I to the spare holes

Use an "easy out stud remover". Follow simple instructions and drill the correct diameter hole in the centre of the broken stud, screw easy out into position and apply small load and heat around the parent metal and they will come out easy.
If you damage the threads in the casting you can retap as you have done on the spare hole or redrill and helicoil for proper repair.
Good luck mate

I agree with you Guy, it will root cheap studs if not done right. That is why I suggested to "apply a small load" and use a little heat. There are heaps of way to do the job, I guess whichever gets the stud out the easiest and with the least damage is the winner
Anyone that uses heaps of force on an easy out stud remover is heading for a disaster exactly as you describe.
Anyway I hope mr broken stud finds a solution that works for him.

Well it's all very mixed feeling about this

One stud came out a treat but one snapped flush with the head so without a centre punch decent drill bits etc I used the two other holes.
I will just drill and tap it one day when the engine comes out.




And with it 99% back together

Was about to tell you to use the other 2 holes, but you figured it out yourself

Did you try the horn recently buddy? They are not much to start with and with that much rust it might be toast!
I know I know but it is a safety item...

Yeah does look rather rusty.

But all is working well, thanks for the advice.

On thing I have notice is that the bike seems a lot quieter now? Could This be down to new gaskets?
Bike been disconnected from battery for a few days etc

Thanks for all the help advice people