Help

i dont fell any engine braking on my sd wen i enter on thigt curves does anyhone have the same problem?

I read before that KTM built into the fuell mapping that it maintained the bike revs when the trottle is shut suddenly to prevent the rear wheel lockin up.This means you have a sensation of no engine braking as it dont kick in as such but just slowly takes effect.

However the engine braking is still there and I have had the rear lock iup once or twice in the wet.

Hi guys

I have recently purchased Danno's 2008 SDR and could with a bit of advice without trying to go through all the posts on this thread!

Firstly, what are the SAS plates? Can I liberate a few BHP by removing them? If so will it then fail emissions on its MOT?

Is the airbox restrictive? Can it be modified or do I need a motobox?

Do you need to fit a power commander with any of these mod's or can the ECU be re-mapped?

I used to race an RSVR and they responded well to airbox mod's, but is there much gain to be had with modifying the above? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

For the SAS if you look on the left side of the rear cylinder, just below the airbox is a black pipe attached to a plate. That's the one you would fit the block to once removed (you can stick a marble/bolt into the tube to block it as well). The front can be a pain to get to


Airbox wise, some of us just fit a good panel filter and remove the snorkel. A lot of people have gone down the MHB route and had good results.

A new kid on the block is the DNA airbox. Depending which one you go for, the results will be as good as the MH and up.

Few people have fitted pod filters, good results for not alot of money.

Go for some info on airbox mods.


The ECU can be remapped. TuneECU is a free software that allows you to do it yourself, maps found anlong with PC maps. A lot of people ditched the PC when TE came out, but some left it installed for ease of tuning from a dyno so it's up to you which you use.


Answer to the last question, . The airbox was designed for the Adventure so isn't the best for perfomance


The search function on this site is very good and easy to use, so don't be afraid to use it.
HTH

Thanks for the advice! I will do a bit of rese
arch and have a play!

I wrote this installation manual for the MotoBox a few years age. It's is still available to download from his site and has quite a bit of info about the benefits of freeing up the airbox and removing the SAS system. There are a couple of new advancements in thinking since this was written. Removing or replacing the secondary butterflies with modified items, from MH also), improves low down torque, and the big one on the horizon is the dual velocity intake stacks being developed by MrZ32 here on the forum. My advice is do all the mods you fancy in one go and then get a pukker custom map made.

http://www.motohooliganperformance.com/instructions.pdf

I would got rid of the airbox asap. Personally I would go for Motobox but purely because Aaron is one of our own and the first to offer a after market box to the masses. DNA Mk3 seems to offer slightly better figures but is also more dosh.

Whip out the secondary flies while you are at it, bike is much more responsive without them. Can all be turned off with TuneECU to avoid FI error code.

SAS can either be removed and blanked off completely or you can run the crank breather into them instead. You can buy the required resistor from Maplins to stop the FI light flashing a error code on the dash. All explained in Bic's great PDF.

Keep an eye on MrZ32's thread on his DVS that are about to hit production. Dyno figures are showing great results.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=14265

Get a Motobox/DNA, second flies out and MrZ32's DVS and then dyno her and you'll be seeing great figures from a custom map. If you can find someone that will tune with TuneECU then great otherwise a PCIII/V is required. Twisted Jester may be offering a hire service with is spare PCIII for a tune. You then just copy the F/A info from the PC map into TuneECU and upload to ECU. This is the route I took.

Get rid of those chicken strips that came with the bike asap. No matter what Danno said they are not an added bonus in the sale

Thanks for all the info guys! I will defo go with a replacement airbox and SAS modifications, if its possible to increase the power and smooth out the snatchy throttle response without too much agro, its a no brainer!! The thread by MrZ on the dvs's looks promising as well! I may need to save up a few more pennies after Danno cleaned me out though
PS: He told me that the chicken strips were normal on SD's as the handle bars touch down before you get to the edge of the tyre

With the mods and a custom map she will be smooth as silk. Or at least for a hooligan twin

hi guys
the digital display on my 08 super-duke has decided not to work there is just the back-light lit. it did this a couple of months ago but came on after about an hour, but I've been for a spin today and it hasn't come back on, anyone of you clever guys got any clues cheers

i have looked at the rectifier threads, and don't think that is the problem. there is no error codes, lights or sounds. there's just nothing apart from the back-light

Read the thread N0.47 linked again, then once you have read it and seen there are more that one types of indications it could be the rectifier go buy a new one as your first port of call after checking ALL your wiring.

or the speedo has died from vibration and/or oxidation (from moisture getting in)
http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthre ... fog-repair

mine went blank just before the ecu and shorai melted, cause r/r but yours could be just a loose /broken wire

Hello, I've just done my headlight upgrade and bike runs for a few seconds then just dies. No fl blink codes

Please help

Tipover switch

i had a feeling it maybe this but

how can i check this?

as ive looked again at the wiring, everything is tight and secure.

thanks for the reply

Is it mounted correctly?

maybe not

Bike will do this with the headlight mask down. Make sure it's back in place before you try and start the bike. If that doesn't cure it remove the plug from the back of it. Bike should start but you'll get a FI light.

Always started once mask is secured upright.

I've got a feeling the sensor needs to be mounted on its side rather than vertical (like it is)

Will remove plug to see like you said if it runs long than what I'm currently getting

thanks no.47 and Colonel_Klinck disconnected the sensor and it runs but as you say with the FL light.

does anyone know the correct angle/degrees the sensor should be position at?

as ive see some vertical and horizontal i was thinking about aiming for 45?

Correct position is shown in repair manual downloadable from here - horizontal, from memory, with 'UP' stamped on sensor up.........

Comrade: Its as 47 says. It's got a little pendulum inside so if it's upside-down the switch activates and the bike shuts off after 3 sec.

Its defo the tip over sensor, happened to me the other day when I was carbon wrapping the headlight cowl, the position should be in a horizontal position with the words up facing you, give it a tap and shake as the pendulum may be stuck.