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Idle Speed Motor
40 posts · Started by No. 47 · 14 Mar 2010
Post 2 by ktmguy,
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Post 3 by No. 47,
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Post 4 by No. 47,
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Post 5 by Superdan,
#5Mine does this too, runs at 3000rpm does not usually do it in the summer however.
Had it hooked up to my PC and dynojet table when at 3k was stating throttle at 3% then went down to 1.5K after a moment or two and reverted throttle opening opening to 0%, has something to do with the engine not being warm me thinks.
Had it hooked up to my PC and dynojet table when at 3k was stating throttle at 3% then went down to 1.5K after a moment or two and reverted throttle opening opening to 0%, has something to do with the engine not being warm me thinks.
Post 6 by ktmguy,
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Post 7 by No. 47,
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Post 8 by Lowrance,
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Post 10 by Lowrance,
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Post 12 by ktmguy,
#12Not sure about the HD grease dude. Like John says get the proper stuff from an electrical outlet or so. It's cheap enough. Molycote has good one and petroleum jelly works fine also.
Post 13 by bic_bicknell,
#13Post 14 by BASH69,
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Post 15 by No. 47,
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Post 17 by Lowrance,
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Post 20 by ktmguy,
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Post 21 by ktmguy,
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Post 22 by No. 47,
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Post 23 by koarrl,
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Post 25 by koarrl,
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Post 26 by No. 47,
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Post 27 by ktmguy,
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Post 28 by No. 47,
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Post 29 by koarrl,
#29- crankshaft pickup.. I never even thought of this giving erroneous signal, 'cause my ignition sounded rather fine and smooth. So, I will look for this salted corroded connector too.
There are so many possibilities for failures in such an electrical system. Sadly the CDI box seems to try to compensate some of them thus complicating the search.
In my experience electrical faults are almost always caused by some mechanical / electrochemical event. Luckily, there are often ways to repair the basic cause without a need for expensive spare parts. Just locate the rotten plug and clean it
Have a nice day,
koarrl (no probs for the moment)
There are so many possibilities for failures in such an electrical system. Sadly the CDI box seems to try to compensate some of them thus complicating the search.
In my experience electrical faults are almost always caused by some mechanical / electrochemical event. Luckily, there are often ways to repair the basic cause without a need for expensive spare parts. Just locate the rotten plug and clean it
Have a nice day,
koarrl (no probs for the moment)
Post 30 by No. 47,
#30Agreed but still have to find source of problem.
Fuel pressure etc checks out so, unless it is water and/or contaminated fuel, could be related to/latest symptom of base problem.
Fuel pressure etc checks out so, unless it is water and/or contaminated fuel, could be related to/latest symptom of base problem.
Post 31 by No. 47,
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Post 32 by Lowrance,
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Post 33 by No. 47,
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Post 34 by Lowrance,
#34Cool. Wish you lots of luck. Might want to take a look at the ECU connector as well since you’ll have the tank up but pretty sure it’ll be the GBC.
Again, mine ran fine any time the revs were above 3500-4000rpm as well. The idle was erratic and would jump between 3000rpm to stalling with no consistency at all. The most disconcerting part was while cornering on tight roads, it felt as if I was being pushed through the corners which can be a little disconcerting especially when you were trying to decelerate.
John
Again, mine ran fine any time the revs were above 3500-4000rpm as well. The idle was erratic and would jump between 3000rpm to stalling with no consistency at all. The most disconcerting part was while cornering on tight roads, it felt as if I was being pushed through the corners which can be a little disconcerting especially when you were trying to decelerate.
John
Post 35 by No. 47,
#35Yep, I missed both ECU connectors first time round.
Post 36 by No. 47,
#36Friday's journeys were the worst ever with the bike almost unrideable due to ever worstening fuel starvation symptoms - curiously less problems with high idle but still there.
Stripped the bike on Saturday, drained and dried fuel tank and pump including cleaning the pick up filter, and contact cleaned, air blasted and dry reconnected every ECU/throttle body connector. Noticed an unused (altitude?) connector behind the headstock next to another unknown connector which turned out to be for the front cylinder ignition coil. Appears that both the '08 SDR ignition coil connectors are remote, with that for the rear cylinder next to the fuel pipe connection, and not as per repair manual - or is that just mine?
Put it all back together, fresh fuel and 15 minute (lumpy circa 1000 - 1500 rpm) throttleless tickover - took it for short test ride and............exactly the same as before I took it apart, practically unrideable with both fuel starvation and constant high rpm tickover symptoms - it ain't water in the fuel.
Noticed that repair manual refers to 2nd/3rd gear sensor is important re idle speed so decided to clean this and all connectors in the battery area - one of the wires to the (male) rear O2 sensor broke in doing so - this means 'remaking' the male connector before I fit my soon to arrive o2 eliminators - decided to disconnect sensor and live with the FI light etc - took another brief test ride and, as per last time I rode with an FI (tps) error code, the engine ran much more smoothly with no sign of high idle speed and only a small degree of 'fuel starvation' stutter................
Was due to replace head bearings tomorrow but the bike is now going back to the dealer until this is sorted properly - once sorted, and only then, will post cause of problem and solution for others reference.
Stripped the bike on Saturday, drained and dried fuel tank and pump including cleaning the pick up filter, and contact cleaned, air blasted and dry reconnected every ECU/throttle body connector. Noticed an unused (altitude?) connector behind the headstock next to another unknown connector which turned out to be for the front cylinder ignition coil. Appears that both the '08 SDR ignition coil connectors are remote, with that for the rear cylinder next to the fuel pipe connection, and not as per repair manual - or is that just mine?
Put it all back together, fresh fuel and 15 minute (lumpy circa 1000 - 1500 rpm) throttleless tickover - took it for short test ride and............exactly the same as before I took it apart, practically unrideable with both fuel starvation and constant high rpm tickover symptoms - it ain't water in the fuel.
Noticed that repair manual refers to 2nd/3rd gear sensor is important re idle speed so decided to clean this and all connectors in the battery area - one of the wires to the (male) rear O2 sensor broke in doing so - this means 'remaking' the male connector before I fit my soon to arrive o2 eliminators - decided to disconnect sensor and live with the FI light etc - took another brief test ride and, as per last time I rode with an FI (tps) error code, the engine ran much more smoothly with no sign of high idle speed and only a small degree of 'fuel starvation' stutter................
Was due to replace head bearings tomorrow but the bike is now going back to the dealer until this is sorted properly - once sorted, and only then, will post cause of problem and solution for others reference.
Post 37 by No. 47,
#37Current diagnosis = fuel pump (failing when hot but previously not apparent when pressure tested whist being ridden) + leaking inlet manifold rubbers.
Fingers crossed.....................
New steering head bearings and a pair of front discs (£250 each........) also being fitted.
End of thread?
Fingers crossed.....................
New steering head bearings and a pair of front discs (£250 each........) also being fitted.
End of thread?
Post 38 by No. 47,
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Post 39 by Superdan,
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Post 40 by No. 47,
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