Resistor and Evap Canister

Has anyone who removed their evaporative canister (thing under the seat of US SDs) also replaced the solenoid/valve near the front of the air box with a resistor? How many ohms? Did you just solder it in place where the valve was, or did you follow the wires to another (perhaps better) place on the wiring loom?

(I know I can just leave the valve there, but I'd like to take it out).

Thanks for any advice.

I replaced my SAS valve with a 1,000 ohm resistor (per the forum) and it seems to work fine. The SD block wiring diagrams show the same symbol for the evap canister valve, but provide no numbers or other data. If the resistance is too low, the resistor will overheat/burn out(?); too high and I'm afraid it may damage the ECU (someone posted that they destroyed their ECU by just wiring straight across where their SAS valve was). Does anyone know how to figure out what the correct resistance might be? Thanks for any thoughts, and indulging my senseless piddling.

good question, does it need to be replaced by resistor at all? did you try just unpluging it? i have not got around to doing that, i just removed the canister and routed the gas tank vent down to the bottom of the bike, and the other hose (return to the airbox via the valve i'm assuming) i just took out at the valve. i've been meaning to remove the valve, but didn't get to it yet. gonna ditch it together with SAS/PAIR valve in the spring, it's too cold now. bike is going to sleep this week.

Thanks Smoky. I hadn't thought of just removing the valve - I assumed I would get a blinking error light from the ECU. I'll have to look at the valve more closely, but it seemed like it was wired directly, instead of having a removable connector. If so, I guess I can cut the wires and then solder the valve back in if I get an error light (or roll the dice and start trying different resistors).

I too routed the hose from the tank to the bottom of the bike, but otherwise I pulled all of the hoses out and put vacuum caps over the nipples to the cylinders. Now my valve is just hanging in space sucking and blowing to nowhere. In case useful to you, there is an exploded diagram of the evap canister system in the parts manual. There also is one of the SAS system (which I found more challenging to remove).

I hope your bike wakes up happy.

yeah, on 1000rr simply unplugging that valve worked without any errors, but not sure about SD...
i don't like the idea of cutting the wires, at leaset till i'm sure it will work, did you follow them to the other end? maybe there is a plug on the other end...