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Soft 32 - Dat 101 (Rectifier Problems)

42 posts · Started by No. 47 · 13 Dec 2009

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Post 1 by No. 47,

#1
Low beam bulb blows, then clock resets, then digital display disappears and tacho sometimes dies but backlight stays on - two code messages - 'soft' in bottom left corner and '32' in bottom right, followed by 'dat' and '101' in respective corners of digital display ('soft' = software and 'dat' = data?) - digital display will then fire up again, then die followed by the two code messages and the cycle is repeated a few times until digital display comes back 'permanently'.

Has now happened five/six times but usually with a working low beam bulb at the start - the clock reset , loss of digital display and code message cycle has only happened once or twice with a blown low beam bulb.

Have just been through the repairing/replacing corroded battery/relay cables saga but this problem was happening before and continues after - concluded that bulb and digital display may not be related and is most likely loose connection(s) but anyone else experienced this or similar problem?

Post 2 by ShadeTheChangingMan,

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Post 3 by doctypo,

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Post 4 by No. 47,

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Post 5 by MRK-01,

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Post 6 by No. 47,

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Post 7 by SDNerd,

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Post 8 by ShadeTheChangingMan,

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Post 9 by SDNerd,

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Post 10 by ShadeTheChangingMan,

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Post 11 by ktmguy,

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Post 12 by buchere,

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Post 13 by DribbleDuke,

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Post 14 by smoky,

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Post 15 by No. 47,

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Post 16 by No. 47,

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Post 17 by No. 47,

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Post 18 by No. 47,

#18
Solved and it's another one to add to the checklist - broken red/white wire at 12 pole connector to bottom lhs (sitting on the bike) behind headlamp - from the wiring diagram, this appears to be the power source (excluding backlight) for the speedo unit - manual is wrong/inconsistent re description for this connector and the one above as the bottom one is definitely for the front wiring loom including the speedo unit.

Klinck - suggest deleting (Rectifier Problems) to title of this sticky as there is more than one problem/solution for the 'Soft 32 - Dat 101' issue.

Post 19 by cloonster,

#19
It was one of the wires in the two-pin connector in the RHS of the headlamp mask. That particular wire is one of the (two) earths from the instrument panel; without it, the entire panel fails.

Post 20 by SDNerd,

#20
had the SD apart over the last week to fit MH, remove SAS, 2nd flies and 02 sensors.

finally started doing some tuneECU work and once done and all mods complete got Soft 33 - Dat 101 and bike wouldn't turn over etc , same dash issues.

Tested battery and was 12.2 V, trickle charged over night and awoke to 12.8 this morning (trickler stating fully charged).

hey presto, started first time and subsequent times. definately in my case battery didn't have enough charge . amazing .5 of a volt makes such a diff.

Post 21 by 41KS,

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Post 22 by 41KS,

#22
Well, got the soft message after tried to start the bike after winter storage. As I am not familiar with the bike yet (I have 2008 SD) I thought it is some Austrian-German humour that battery is soft Shortly, it wont started, by ear it was 1/4 turns to engine battery was able to do and thats all. However front light was not dim at all when turned on ignition, and no any direct signs of dropped current by this observation. Charged the battery overnight, and on next morning it started like a dream. By the way, first ride ever with this machine tomorrow Hope the weather will be fine, as this battery issue failed my first good-weather attempt on this year

Post 23 by ktmguy,

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Post 24 by 41KS,

#24
So I rode 120 miles yesterday medium paced in the canyons of CO, I had to do 5 miles of smooth dirt road, where I was going really slow, no mud. I got home parked the bike for the night and went to start it this morning and got the soft 32 dat 101 error. I have the battery on the tender now to see if thats the issue. But could it have been the battery discharging overnight, or is it more likely the regulator? I have checked all the connections in the battery box and haven't gotten it to start. Any suggestion would help, seems like this is a common problem with no common solution. I would rather not spend hundreds of dollars replacing an unnecessary part.

thanks again

Post 25 by omky756,

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Post 26 by No. 47,

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[/quote]

I suggest checking the connectors. The wires sometimes break on the following spots:
Earth (negative to frame) from the regulator.
Big brown connector comming from the alternator (see left hand side under the lower spoiler.
And all the connectors in general for moisture or loose wiring.

Your of road trip might have shaken something loose.[/quote]

Charged battery, stopped charging at 12.52V should be enough to crank it over?

the grounds were all tight, I cleaned the connections, and still no go.

Does this mean its the regulator? any thing else I should check before buying the regulator? The bike has exactly 15006 miles, and has the original regulator, could it just be old and worn out? Also would the bike of died if something shook loose? It ran fine when I shut it off and then wouldn't start back up in the am.

Post 27 by 41KS,

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Post 28 by fuel,

#28
Glad you got it sorted bro..
Keeping them on a trickle charger is the best
way to good battery health..
When they even start to go down..they can
give all kinds of strange glitches....and send
anyone thinking something other than the battery
Is going bad...one thing for sure...
You will remember where to start next time..

Post 29 by ktmguy,

#29
'Fraid in my experience, Varta never last very long on large v-twins - buy the OE Yuasa battery from a Honda dealer (1300 Pan European).

Post 30 by ktmguy,

#30
As I already get used with "KTM expenses" next will be Shorai most probably with its 900gram weight (and 2,5kg weight saving compared to OEM battery). I like how the bike tend to wheelie from throttle only with less than half tank of fuel, so any weight saving from the front seems to be very welcome Its cool when front wheel become airborne at 100km/h with no clutch when doing full throttle at second gear from 60 -125km/h

Post 31 by No. 47,

#31
Just sat in a mechanics in France while they look at my bike.
half way through a 3K mile road trip my satnav packed in so had to buy a car satnav and wire a cigarette lighter socket behind the headlight unit onto the wire that previously supplied the satnav. When trying to start the bike in the morning it wouldn't start. I had to take the battery off to charge it up as there was no power socket near the bike. After replacing the battery everything was fine for a couple of days. After setting off a couple of days later I got the soft dat code with a reset clock but everything else was fine. The next day, when riding, the clocks and dials would all disappear for a couple of minutes and then come back on with the clock reset. This happened a few times, then when riding on the motorway, the bike just cut out and the wheel locked up, I tried bump starting it while rolling but the back wheel just locked up. When the bike stopped there was smoke coming from the battery area and when I tried to start it, nothing happened, apart from the clocks flickered. 10 mins later the clocks of lights wouldn't even come on.
Sorry for the long story, just wanted to add as much detail as possible.

Post 32 by Nathan990,

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Post 33 by No. 47,

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Post 34 by No. 47,

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Yeh, just the revs

Post 35 by No. 47,

#35
Try a 15 min reset from cold.

Post 36 by No. 47,

#36
Just tried that and it's still the same.

Post 37 by WhiteSoul,

#37
Same issues;

Slowly dying rectifier killed 4 batteries. I specifically asked the mechanic to check the rectifier and he said it was fine (checked with voltmeter etc) but he was wrong. It turns out the rectifier tended to only go wonky when the bike/rectifier was heated up, after a certain amount of driving.

New rectifier and battery, runs perfectly now.

Post 38 by No. 47,

#38
Yep, reg/rec can crack and problem evident only when hot.

Post 39 by WhiteSoul,

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Post 40 by steeeve66,

#40
I'll try that, thanks. I haven't actually taken a download yet, I'm assuming the previous owner remapped it when the Mivv pipes were fitted. I'll get hold of a laptop and have a look. I wonder if it has been remapped and the ecu has reset itself back to default, that's maybe why it isn't running properly. I'll try and find a map for Mivv pipes and DNA stage 3 filter.

Post 41 by TimR,

#41
Had same problem.

I thought of the battery, so I ordered a new one, but when I plugged the old one, my optimate showed a green light... I already seen threads about a dead battery showed in green by the optimate, but anyway.
I also tryed to check ALL my connectors (the ones next to the battery, behind the headlight, etc), and I found this :
- I had oil inside the reg/rectifier connector next to the battery (my mistake, from the last time I had my oil changed), so I cleaned it as good as I could
- I also had oil on a connector (don't think it went inside of it) which is on the injector (the black connector), and this was due to my recent problem of water pump , you should see the mayonnaise I had in the MH airbox...
Cleaned all and put the new battery (Yuasa). Then I connected the bike to TuneECU, and I saw this error message :

P0560 - control unit voltage supply - malfunction

Oh sh**, it seems to be related to the reg/rectifier. Could it be possible that the oil inside the connector did all this ?

I made a (really) short ride after the battery change and the cleaning, and no problem, except my speedometer telling me I was riding at 453 km/h, during a really short time. Appeard only once, no other sign of malfunction...

Post 42 by steeeve66,

#42
Have always changed battery and reg/rec at same time, just in case.
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