Super Duke VS idle: 6 months of war... SOLVED!

I think I've tried any solution to solve this problem, so I don't know if this thread can help me, but surely it won't hurt:
From July 2013 I'm swearing behind a problem with the idle speed of my SD .

My SD has about 60,000 km. From October 2012 has MotoHooligan filter + secondary flies removed + rc8 stacks and custom dyno tune ECU map.
After these mods I run at least 5-6000 km without any problem, in any condition.

Out of the blue, in July 2013, the idle lowered at 1,000 rpm, but only while driving (after 10 seconds on the side stand or at traffic lights the idle returns regularly at 1400) resulting in sudden shutdowns and trouble in restarting the engine (it starts only if you turn off and turn on the ignition).

After that I tried everything, I've done all the diagnostics imaginable with ECU tune, reloaded the map, changed the graphite gasket in the exhaust that was dust, the bike has passed through two KTM dealers with no idea of the problem... in the end the only improvement was a reduced tendency to shutdown, after the alignment of the throttle bodies (which KTM says not to do). Anyway, I continued to use it making more than 10,000 km this year.

Winter has come and everything has gone worse, so I desperately bought a used throttle body (with injectors , wiring, idle stepper motor , tps ) and mounted it yesterday, result: the problem is even worse! It turns off all the time and the minimum is even lower than before while driving.

I don't know what to do, I'm out of my mind ... I can't comprehend how it can be a problem with the tune ECU map because I rode the same setup last winter and spring with no problems

The KTM dealer in my town doesn't want to see my bike any more, sayin' "too many mods"

Have you ever heard of a similar problem?

Use a voltmeter to make sure your TPS is adjusted correctly. Probably your issue.

I'll just say clean your BGC too, before Lowrance pops in

Moisture in BGC....do a search

Thanks guys but the TPS is correct and I've already cleaned the BGC
i underline that I never saw any error code on tune ECU... the problem appears As soon as the bike is moving
it shutdowns only when I pull the clutch but driving I can clearly feel that the minimum is lower than normal

Check your clutch switch, the metal contact strip ( lever end) sometimes gets bent out of position, also check connector behind headlight

I had exactly the same problem. TPS was fooked and I had to replace it.

As Steve mentioned....the clutch switch is a definite possibility as it can be bent easiliy like when washing bike with a rag for example. You mentioned cleaning BGC, did you dry it out and pack with dilectric grease? If not, you didn't sort the BGC correctly.

Good luck...

Air, Fuel, Spark. Need them all. Wild card here but your gas tank filter / pump might not be flowing e-nuf. Also look at all electrical grounds. Might be time some of your wires are breaking up in your wiring harness near the head stock that flexs. Had the problem this fall on my bud KTM 990 Adventure.

Ok thanks for the suggestions, I've already checked most of them and I'll do the same to the rest, so I don't answer them one by one, but thanks!

But I've another question for you guys:


I never did the "Reset Adaption" mentioned on tune ECU manual, I used to reload the map without disconnecting the battery to start the 15 min reset... but to be honest I never felt any difference after that
Which is the source for this phrase in the manual? The statement about "long period idle problems" is killing my mind
Any idea? Have you aver done the reset adaption?

Here is a photo of the key switch with the broken wire. This is the same switch on you bike, same wrong wire used in a flex application. Both org and blu wires had the pinch / break in the wires, one more than the other. Keep posting back..we will find it.

I would definitely do the reset.

Ditto - have used the reset adaption and, coincidentally or not, it solved/helped running issues - no idea why though.....................

Along with all the advice above, would underline checking clutch switch and also, given your mileage, check intake rubbers seating/leaks/cracks - for me, the latter has resulted in higher, not lower, idle rpm/cutting out but you never know.

Disconnect the tip over sensor in the headlight mask, it's worth a try, mine was cutting out for no apparent reason a few years ago and I tried everything to no avail. Then Bingo switch pulled apart and I was back in business Hope this cures it ,but if not it hasn't cost you anything but a few minutes!


This :

Mate I wish I could come over and fix this for you.
It normally wouldn't take me more than an hour to pinpoint the problem but more and more recently all people with diagnostic skils are not working in dealerships.
Talking to a chap yesterday who had problems with his van pulling to the left, they doen ten(yes 10 ) wheel alignments. it took me 15 seconds to conclude that they didn't put the steering wheel -rack in the middle before they started.
Anyway nothing to do with your issue.

I have to sat that Lowrance is probably correct in his diagnose. Try this: connect tuneecu and start the bike, wait for the idle to go down too low and look at the stepper motor that controls the idle (at the front of the throttle bodies (I hope you have a MH or rottly air filter otherwise you have to lift the tank and open the lot). If it does push on the tab check if it is not at the end (out of reach). Also verify all settings in tuneecu like temp and so on even the idle map. At 65 C it should still be 1450 rpm. Is the temp sensor operating correctly? The connector corrodes badly. If you still have the second butterflies in is that map been changed?
Did you ever had a look down the throttle bodies while it is idling? Maybe this helps to see what happens.

Feed us some information, I'm sure we can figure it out.
Try to follow a system, don't jump from one thing to another and you will find the problem.

Thank you all for the tips, problem solved!
Checked connectors and then done the TPS reset and Reset Adaption with TuneECU and magically the Karriola has reborn!
Tested only around the block, tomorrow I'll do a ride to test it better!

I'm fuxxin' with the idle again
after the change of throttle bodies all the issues seemed solved
But the engine was slightly grumpy at low ranges
I did make the throttle body alignment and they gave me back the bike with the idle at 3.000rpm
I did many reset adaptions and it moved to 2.000rpm, too high!
Then I gave back the bike to the mechanic and he lowered the idle trhough the tune ECU map to 1.300rpm
now the bike has a strange behaviour:
in neutral the idle is approximately 1500 rpm
Case 1: when moving if I pull the clutch and close the gas, for the first 2-3 seconds it remains at 1900-2000 rpm and lowers to 1500
Case 2: when moving with gear in if I close the gas without pulling the clutch and slow down, the bike keeps going (potentially forever) at 2,000 rpm

what the fook is doing my bike?

Did you check the clutch switch?

It's not a cleaning thing - check clutch switch as per manual and/or swop out - suggest latter as mine's checked out OK two or three times but were still faulty, only confirmed by replacing.

Yet another variation on a theme, maybe. Only happens when in gear or in neutral as well? BGC?

Don't know why touching the brake makes a difference though.