My engine sounds a little clanky. I'm in the processing of repairing a few things; balancer shaft seal, checking oil filter for contamination in the next oil change this week. If that doesn't fix my issue, in going to move on to the timing chain. Could someone help me with the parts ill need to change?
Timing chain change?
13 posts · Started by Aphex · 30 Jul 2017
Post 2 by No. 47,
#2Before you mess with the timing chain I would check the hydraulic chain tensioners. The rear tensioneris normally the first to go.
46 is the one who told me how to test the tensioners, but I've forgotten.
46 is the one who told me how to test the tensioners, but I've forgotten.
Post 3 by Aphex,
#346? Is VR a member here?
Rebuild manual:
Page 5-13 - NOTE: the spring preload cannot be checked directly; if the tension spring is worn, the balancer shaft drive will become loud. - and the cam chain will rattle........................
Page 6-15 (and 6-19) - – Apply the chain tensioner bolt and new sealing washer to the chain tensioner element without compressing the spring. Measure the distance 2 between the sealing washer and the cylinder head. The measured value has to be between 6 mm and 11 mm. If the value
is lower, the tensioning rail could be worn or the timing chain excessively elongated.
Rebuild manual:
Page 5-13 - NOTE: the spring preload cannot be checked directly; if the tension spring is worn, the balancer shaft drive will become loud. - and the cam chain will rattle........................
Page 6-15 (and 6-19) - – Apply the chain tensioner bolt and new sealing washer to the chain tensioner element without compressing the spring. Measure the distance 2 between the sealing washer and the cylinder head. The measured value has to be between 6 mm and 11 mm. If the value
is lower, the tensioning rail could be worn or the timing chain excessively elongated.
Post 4 by No. 47,
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Post 5 by Colonel_Klinck,
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Post 6 by Aphex,
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Post 7 by Aphex,
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Post 8 by Aphex,
#8Tensioner only available as complete part, not components, other than sealing washer - rear is easy to replace, front not so.
Post 9 by No. 47,
#9I did a timing chain change. It is a lot of work. Only did it because I was changing both base gaskets and the bike had done 52k miles. I'd say it's the hydrolic tensioners. The chains on my bike were in pretty good condition.
Post 10 by Aphex,
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Post 11 by No. 47,
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Post 12 by Aphex,
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Post 13 by nampus,
#13And keep in mind, that the the 20mm refers to the outside diameter of the thread inside the nut, so you probably need a 30mm socket.
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